These honey sesame candies are a chewy, nutty, 30-minute snack
I don't eat a lot of packaged candy these days. If I want a sweet, I'm probably going to take aim at a baked good or ice cream. Some good dark chocolate or little artisan chocolate confection is about as close as I get - unless you put a bag of those mellowcreme pumpkins in front of me, and then I am totally, inexplicably helpless. But let's not go there.
Yet something about candy has a nostalgic stranglehold on me - and on many of us. Maybe it has to do with those brain pleasure centers that light up and make us reach for Runts instead of rutabaga. Or maybe it's the good memories attached to candy. I still remember eating the Andes mints in the apartment office where I'd accompany my mom to pay our rent when I was a toddler. I have a less-distinct memory - my great aunt's candy dish, perhaps? - of those strawberry suckers that are hard on the outside but gooey on the inside.
But sesame-honey candies - the individually wrapped, pinkie-sized bricks - will forever, fondly be associated with my grandfather. It has probably been decades since he pulled one out of his pocket for me and my brothers, yet still the association remains. I flashed back immediately to that when I bit into one of these Sesame Candies from "Israeli Soul: Easy, Essential, Delicious," the new cookbook by chef Michael Solomonov of Philadelphia's Zahav and his business partner, Steven Cook. The book calls it brittle, but we thought the texture was more chewy than crackly.
The candy captures that sweet, nutty flavor of the store-bought stuff, without the annoying cellophane wrappers. The flavor is amped up by the less-traditional addition of tahini. The tahini also keeps the candy from getting as rock hard as what you might buy - a good thing, in my book. (As a kid, I used to have to suck on them for a while to soften them to a chewable consistency.)
I got a more toasty, caramel flavor when I used a darker honey and took the mixture to a slightly darker color. If you go the latter route, just be careful because it can burn quickly. If you want a thicker slab than the thin pieces this recipe creates, you can put the mixture in a pan with less surface area, such as a loaf pan. You'll probably end up with fewer pieces.
As it stands, the recipe makes 64 small squares. (I happen to like their resemblance to Scrabble tiles.) So there's plenty for you to gobble down and still have enough to share. I think it's time I repay the favor and share some with my grandpa.