Concannon family helped shape California's vineyards

When you're in a family business for 135 years, you're bound to see some changes.

The Concannons of Livermore Valley, California's Concannon Vineyard have not only seen changes - they've spearheaded some of the most important that shape our California vineyards.

In 1865, scion James Concannon immigrated to the U.S. at 18, possessing the twin gifts of gab and luck in which his fellow Irishmen are reputed to excel.

He made friends with winegrowers at the famed French Chateaux d'Yquem and Margaux, transplanting their sauvignon blanc and cabernet sauvignon vines respectively. In 1889, Concannon wines were presented at the International Paris Exposition, leading Livermore to be recognized as the first American region to win Gold and Grand Prix awards.

He made friends with San Francisco's Archbishop Alemany, who granted Concannon a sacramental wine license, which was good for immediate business and was more valuable when Prohibition from 1920 through 1933 banned recreational alcohol.

"A lot of people found religion in those dark years," jokes John Concannon, fourth generation winemaker, during our recent luncheon at Chicago's Hopleaf Bar.

At Prohibition's repeal, with the wine industry in disarray, Concannon helped establish The Wine Institute, still California wine's largest advocacy and public policy association, representing the industry at the state, federal and international levels.

From 1950 through 1960, Concannon employed Katherine Vajda, California's first female professional winemaker.

Then, in 1965, third-generation Jim Concannon was approached by the University of California Oenological Department's Dr. Harold Olmo, now renowned as America's most influential grape breeder and geneticist. They shared a conviction that California could rival the world's greatest wine regions if only growers had access to top-quality, virus-free vines. (Remember, there are no wine vines native to our entire American continent).

Concannon provided cuttings of his Bordeaux Cabernet vines, which Olmo heat-treated to eliminate viruses, then propagated and observed. By 1970, the exceptional quality from the "Concannon Mother Vine" earned recognition with the Concannon Clones 7, 8 and 11. Before these clones were released, California planted 700 acres of cabernet sauvignon. Today, Concannon clones account for 90,000 California vineyard acres - approximately four of every five bottles of California cabernet sauvignon enjoyed today.

In 2002, the Concannon's responded to a change faced by every American family business. Seeing consolidation in every segment of the industry, Concannon sold to The Wine Group, the world's second largest wine producer by volume.

The Wine Group financed John Concannon's 10-year revitalization project, including a solar-powered winery and restoration of the original, historic vineyard.

"It was crucial to find a company who wanted to preserve our history," Concannon said, "because you can't buy history."

Today, Concannon Vineyards maintains its position as one of California's most historic properties, offering well-made, delicious and affordable wines that express their growing regions. What hasn't changed is adherence to James Concannon's motto and the Gaelic meaning of the Concannon name: "Wisdom without compromise."

Recommended Concannon wines include:

• Chardonnay, Monterey County: Ripe, bright and supple, expressive of cool coastal vineyards bathed in fog. Seven months in oak adds baking spice accents with no detraction from delicious green apple flavors and creamy finish. Serve as a rich cocktail and complement to rich seafood and poultry, including Duck Reuben (enjoyed on the beautiful patio at Hopleaf Bar). Under $20.

• Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles: Ripe cherry, currant and plum flavors with damp earth and fir, cocoa and vanilla accents. Hearty but easy-to-enjoy as an extra-rich cocktail and complement to rich meats, poultry and grilled veggies. Under $20.

• Petite Sirah, Livermore Valley: Not gussied-up to fit any international style, the wine is rugged with extra-ripe fruit, green peppercorn accents & peppery - though plush - tannin. "It's a St. Bernard who wants to sit in your lap, very friendly and very big," Concannon said. In 1961, Concannon became the first vineyard to lift the grape from its anonymous role in jug wines to star-billing as a California classic. Serve with meats and rich poultry. Under $15.

• Mary Ross is an Advanced Sommelier (Court of Master Sommeliers), a Certified Wine Educator (Society of Wine Educators) and recipient of the Wine Spectator's "Grand Award of Excellence." Write to her at food@daily herald.com.

Critical Acclaim

WE 89

Wine Enthusiast

Intriguing floral aromas like rose petals and appetizing, fresh berry flavors are tempting in this medium-bodied and not-too-tannic wine. While still firm in texture, this will drink well soon, but will be best after 2018.

- Editors' Choice