The tale of two bubblies and how to tell them apart

Once, you'd pour a glass of bubbly - from France, Spain or parts beyond - and folks would exclaim, "Oh goody, Champagne!" Now, the anonymous bubbly flows and folks respond, "Oh goody, Prosecco!"

Sure both these wines sparkle, but they're not the same. So, what's the diff?

The easy answer: 30 bucks.

Prosecco hovers under $20 per bottle. Champagne costs $50 and up. Way up.

The better answer lies in the foundation of all wine: the wine's grape, soil, climate and culture.

Prosecco's grape is Glera, grown almost exclusively in Italy's Prosecco region, which - given the grape's simplicity - is a good thing. Champagne's grapes are Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. While Meunier mostly fills out the blend, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir reign supreme in worldwide vineyards, producing elegant wine, sometimes the most valuable flavors on earth. (A Pinot Noir from France's Burgundy region recently sold for $7,000; that's $275 per ounce!)

Italian wine law maps Prosecco's soil. The DOCG law (G for "garantita") guarantees the finest zones to be Conegliano and Valdobbiadene, with steep, south-facing hills of clay, chalk and limestone soils, imparting delicate mineral flavors. DOC wines are allowed vineyards throughout hills and plains. Wines labeled IGT grow in flatlands best suited to grain; since 2009, these labels should read Glera, not Prosecco.

According to French wine law, Champagne is Champagne, with one quality standard. Chalk and limestone endow Champagne with rich mineral complexity.

Prosecco is sunny and warm. Hilly DOCG vineyards receive rich sunshine, ripening grape sugars and fruity flavor, along with cool nights that maintain grape acidity.

Champagne is frigid. Once the earth's coldest region to ripen grapes - if only every other year or so - winegrowers rely on their chalky-white soil to reflect heat back onto grapes. This cold keeps sugar in check, but promotes acid, translating into wines of steely acidity.

Both wines sport natural effervescence, both by adding yeast to new wine, stimulating a second fermentation and its byproduct - carbon dioxide. The trick is trapping the CO2 in the wine.

Prosecco employs the Martinotti Method, and it all takes place in a tank: easy to control, easy to remove spent yeast cells ("lees") and safe. After bottling, wines rest 90 days before sale.

Champagne employs the Champagne Method, which takes place in each bottle. If the bottle doesn't explode which once made Champagne production a risky business, it's difficult to control temperature. During a mandatory 12-month maturation with lees, yeast decomposes, creating flavors described as 'baked brioche'; pressure squeezes large bubbles into teensy bubbles. Finally, there's the magic of removing lees from the sealed bottle. For this presto-chango, check online for "degorgement."

Putting it together, Prosecco is a fabulous fizz, with sun-ripe fruit, delicate sweetness, more-or-less refreshing acidity and eminently appealing - if not complicated - flavor.

At a recent luncheon at The Gage, a range of Prosecco DOC - including Fantinel "One & Only" Millesimato Brut and La Marca Extra Dry - was delectable with fried oysters, grilled pheasant nuggets and slow-roasted boar belly. Champagne is statuesque, generally dry with firm acidity and complex flavor, a thrilling complement to gooey, flavorful - but not sweet - dishes including smoked meats and seafood, eggs and creamy pasta. Recommendations include:

Bollinger NV Special Cuvée Brut: Primarily blended from reserve wines aged five to fifteen years, Bollinger is recognized for a creamy palate with depth, length, structure and complexity. About $50. For a rare treat, try Bollinger R.D., "recently disgorged" after decades of maturation, about $150.

Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve: A softer style, with flavors of white fruit, vanilla, praline and pleasing acidity. About $65.

• Mary Ross is an Advanced Sommelier (Court of Master Sommeliers), a Certified Wine Educator (Society of Wine Educators) and recipient of the Wine Spectator's "Grand Award of Excellence." Write to her at food@daily herald.com.