Keep plants from growing in basement window wells

Q. We remodeled a 60-year-old, ranch-style home four years ago. We enjoy the house immensely except for water issues in the basement.

After installing a sump pump and redirecting downspouts, we thought the issues were resolved. They were until we opened one of the windows to remove the plant material in the window well. We have covers on all the basement window wells.

We discovered the previous owner had caulked the windows shut. It was difficult to undo, so we decided not to open the second window, left the plant material, and re-caulked the first one. We've had no problems with the two windows on the north side.

We did not realize our problem was caused by the plant material until the second window leaked after we re-caulked the first one. The information I found said there can be no plant material in the wells. Digging down 6 inches and adding crushed stone is what should be done. That makes sense as we now understand the leaves act like a pool liner and prevent drainage.

This will not be easy for us to do. Also, if the weeds grow again, we will be back to prying the windows open to clean the wells out?

I spoke to a neighbor who owns a home her grandfather built around the time ours was built. She said he got so tired of the window well leaks that he enclosed the windows on the east side of the house with cement, which is the same side as ours. My question is, do you think cementing the windows is wise, though it seems like an easy solution? Do you have any other suggestion?

A. How did water get into the window wells is the question if you have covers over them. My first thought is that there is a grading problem on that side of the house. Please look at it carefully.

You may have to raise the grade and slope it gently away, making sure that the soil is packed around the window wells in order to prevent any water from leaking into the wells at the joints with the foundation walls.

If the tops of the window wells are at grade level now and the grade is flat or negative (sloping toward the foundation), you will need to raise the well. Add a section of matching metal or add bricks, a soldier course, by burying half of each brick in the soil. This will allow you to raise the grade 4 inches.

All vegetation should be removed from the wells and whatever soil was brought in by water must also be removed to discourage plant growth. Any stones previously laid in the wells are probably mixed with soil and should be removed to a depth of 12 inches below the window sills. Add 6 inches of new stones and be sure to leave a clearance of 6 inches between the stones and the window sills.

Caulking the windows is not the best practice to prevent leakage. If the window frames are made of ferrous material, they are at risk of rusting, unless they are aluminum, and if they are wood, it is likely that 60-year-old windows are not rot-resistant. Consider removing the caulking and return the windows to their original condition.

Removing the windows and closing the openings with masonry is best kept as an absolute necessity if nothing else has worked.

Q. This year's very cold weather has caused a great draft from the space between the brick fireplace and the abutting wood. The wood is part of the shelving. What would you recommend as a caulk or filler to stop this draft?

A. I assume that the crack is rather narrow and not too deep - only as deep as the thickness of the siding.

For a successful and lasting caulked joint, first make sure both of the opposite surfaces are clean and free of loose material. You may need to use an old toothbrush to do this.

Then, very carefully, insert a backer rod, making sure you do not break its skin. Select one of the right size to fit the crack, no bigger or smaller. Push the backer rod gently into the crack with a wooden stick, but only as deeply as the width of the crack.

The purpose of the backer rod is to ensure the caulking bead will only adhere to the opposite surfaces of the crack. It should not adhere to any material in the bottom of the crack in order to allow the caulking compound to stretch and compress without interference.

Use a polyurethane caulking compound and apply it to the crack, but don't overfill the crack. When done, tool the bead of caulking with a gloved finger dampened with your saliva. The end result should be to have achieved a bead that is slightly concave.

You should be able to buy a backer rod and polyurethane caulking in specialty masonry stores and in large box stores in their masonry department.

I have used Sikaflex-1a for decades and consider it from experience to be the best polyurethane caulking/sealant compound. As far as I remember, it was the only product of this type available in the 1950s.

Since then, other brands have been on the market, and I have tried a few, but I have always returned to Sikaflex-1a. When I last checked, Home Depot carried a variance under the name Sikaflex Compound (or similar name), which I believe to be the same as Sikaflex-1a.

A.H. Harris, (www.ahharris.com) which has stores in several Eastern states, will ship anywhere.

Q. How do I order Nok-Out Odor Eliminator from you? Your column said it would give me a 10 percent discount. Your web page didn't help me. Thanks.

A. Nok-Out had advertised in my blog sometime ago (www.henridemarne.com), offering a discount to anyone ordering the product by clicking on their icon on the side bar. Perhaps it didn't match their expectations, and they decided to terminate their offer.

Their offer of 10 percent off any order through the blog was entirely theirs; it had nothing to do with the blog itself. You'll have to order it online if you cannot find it locally in hardware and box stores.

• Henri de Marne, a former remodeling contractor turned columnist and consultant, is the author of "About the House with Henri de Marne" (Upper Access Publishing). He continues to take questions from readers for this column and his website, www.henridemarne.com. Email questions to aboutthehouse@gmavt.net.