For scallops that sizzle with a drizzle
Grilled seafood, lemon, extra-virgin olive oil and herbs: This simple Mediterranean quartet of ingredients is a surefire combination. I first discovered it decades ago at a Greek taverna where they served whole fish chargrilled and doused with spoonfuls of lemon-olive oil dressing spiked with dried oregano and fresh parsley.
To this day, when I see that dish on a menu, I can't resist. Over the years I have enjoyed playing around with the basic formula, using different kinds of seafood, whole, filleted or skewered; substituting lime for lemon; changing up the herbs (pretty much any herb works, and I like to mix dried and fresh); and adding elements such as chopped olives, capers or minced shallot. It's a food version of music's basic blues progression - a simple but winning structure that lends itself to endless possibilities for riffing.
In the accompanying recipe, scallions threaded onto skewers alternately with plump scallops bring an extra element of taste, texture and beauty to the plate as the vegetable softens and its ends frizzle attractively once grilled. The dressing drizzled over the skewers is just like the one I remember from that taverna way back when, with dried oregano and fresh parsley. But here I added the zest of the lemon as well as its juice for an extra layer of brightness. This recipe is prime-time for your best quality extra-virgin olive oil because that luxe, nuanced flavor is a cornerstone of the dish, and the foundation for the many variations you are sure to explore after trying it.
• Ellie Krieger is a registered dietitian, nutritionist and author who hosts public television's "Ellie's Real Good Food." She blogs and offers a weekly newsletter at www.elliekrieger.com.