Sophisticated Nozumi offers diners appetizing payoff
Right now, it's hard to justify spending big bucks to eat out. When diners do take the plunge, however, they want to be rewarded in a big way. That's the niche Nozumi Japanese Cuisine hopes to fill - and the indulgence it wants us to justify.
The high-flying small plates restaurant, situated in a South Barrington strip mall, oozes sophistication - a definite plus. It also has Executive Sushi Chef Andy Park in the kitchen, and that makes all the difference when it comes to setting itself apart from peers.
Japanese for "wish," Nozumi has an industrial-looking black ceiling, sleek, dark-wood seating and partitions (the latter revealing slivers of light) and modern glass pendants that illuminate the moody dining room. The sushi bar proper takes a prominent position in the back of the main dining room, but the menu - well, actually, the series of menus - reveals there's way more than raw fish at play. There's a private tatami room, too, which seats up to 10 and must be reserved in advance, and there's a roomy, stylish lounge to the left of the entrance.
Meals here are about sharing, and they're meant to be a journey of sorts. Diners are presented with a box containing six hard-bound "books," which do everything from chronicle the restaurant's story to tempt patrons with sake-inspired libations, hot and cold small plates, signature rolls and sushi and fancy desserts. There's also a separate chef's menu, which features more inventive creations.
Truth be told, it's overwhelming to select meals this way, and it certainly slows the ordering process down. On the other hand, there may be a method to this madness. While leafing through the volumes, diners are forced to chill out, take time to appreciate the scope of choices and discuss preferences in anticipation of ordering. It's quite a departure from the get-them-in, get-them-out mentality that prevails at most venues.
We started with a round of refreshing cucumber 'tinis, and went on to deconstruct (read: devour) the sun-dried tomato maguro, a dish of just-seared big eye tuna coupled with sake-infused sun-dried tomato and roasted red pepper salad, sweet kabocha purée, a Parmesan frico and whirls of bright yuzu dressing.
Veering in another direction, seared scallops arrived on a bed of creamy, risotto-like, saffron-infused couscous pearls with crisp asparagus and tomato confit in balsamic-soy reduction. Then came dazzlingly moist hamachi cheeks, which were paired with contrasting textures and temperatures in the form of wasabi vinaigrette-dressed cucumber salad and tender potato "frites."
The signature rolls are unique. And although we could have been swayed elsewhere, we do recommend the soy paper-wrapped Black Widow, an over-the-top blend of soft shell crab tempura, spicy crab salad, avocado, pickled red onion and mascarpone infused with lime, cilantro and seven-spice seasoning. It sounds like chaos, for sure, but it's one of the happy variety.
Mind you, purists will not be disappointed; the sashimi - be it o-toro, kampachi, madai or hamachi - is sublime.
If something indulgent is in the cards, the Kobe steak, christened with foie gras-truffle demi glacé, delivers. Taiyou short ribs, while fall-apart-good, are on the sweet side, so do divide them among a crowd.
Desserts, courtesy of Kougi Okumura, go beyond your basic mochi. We shared the Skokora Dream. And while it looked like a rich way to end, this chocolate-glazed cake - layered with bittersweet chocolate mousse and brandy-infused prune jam - was amazingly light.
A nice selection of sake - complete with evocative descriptors - is available as are Japanese-inspired mojito and margarita creations. The wine list holds bottles from around the globe, but reds are fairly California-centric.
Service throughout our meal was as pleasant as can be. And it's interesting to note that kids are made to feel welcome here, so much so that a dish - the DIY Handroll - is offered especially for them. Consisting of a small bento box, it's filled with nori sheets, sushi rice, shrimp, salmon and tamago for create-your-own types.
If it's a cheap meal you're looking for, you won't find it here. What you will encounter, though, is plenty of enjoyment for your money. That's a hot commodity these days.
Nozumi
100 W. Higgins Road, South Barrington; (847) 783-5995; www.nozumirestaurant.com
Cuisine: Modern, eclectic Japanese small plates and specialty rolls
Setting: Swanky, date-worthy and family-friendly
Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. lunch Monday through Saturday; 5 to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 5 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 4 to 10 p.m. Sunday
Entrees: Nigiri and sashimi $6 to $12, maki $5 to $18, small plates and entrees $10 to $35