Lifestyle

Zaidi's Asian and Latin menu adds sophistication to suburban dining

Posted February 02, 2009 10:00 pm

By Jennifer Olvera Daily Herald Correspondent

Fire Fighter Roll at Zaidi's in Naperville. Tanit Jarusan | Staff Photographer

Until the relative present, city dwellers held fast to the belief that the only fine dining to be had was within Chicago's city limits. And while that has changed for the better, most often "sophisticated" suburban spots are greeted with trepidation.

Zaidi's in Naperville might not be an exception to that rule, but the folks behind it surely understand the import of first impressions. So, the black-and-red-toned dining room - with its arty, mermaid-emblazoned glass panels, black-clothed tables and sushi bar flanked with flaming columns - is far from cookie-cutter in feel.

The lighting (low), partitions (hip) and glassed-in cellar (stocked with expensive bottles) give the space a lounge-y, date-night appeal. The prize for the most eye-catching feature, however, goes to the black, anemone-like, blown-glass lights that loom above high-backed leather banquettes. A more casual, separate bar to the right of the entrance provides a low-key place to munch on upscale bar bites such as lobster sliders, if you're so inclined.

At first glance, there's plenty to like about the Asian- and Latin-tinged menu; it globe trots galore. Delve deeper and you'll find numerous dishes worth ordering, starting with tuna tartare laced with chili oil, scallions, togarashi, soy, jalapenos, cilantro and preserved lemons, or showy kobe beef carpaccio presented on a hot volcanic rock.

At first, we played it relatively safe by choosing the jumbo lump crab cakes, which were good but even better when enjoyed in tandem with the sweet-tangy slaw and Cajun remoulade. More disappointing was the pan-seared halloumi salad, which brought to light a problem that plagued us through our meal. The two slabs of cheese were room temperature, while the slices of grilled tomatoes they rested upon were blazing hot. Beneath were fresh, crisp lettuce leaves. Flavorful drizzles of aged balsamic and walnut vinaigrette were lost in translation, given the dueling temperatures and textures at play. It's a real bummer since halloumi usually is so darn tasty.

From there, it was on to the costly, but quite good, Fire Fighter Roll. It arrived atop a whirl of savory sauce. On the inside, spicy tuna, jalapenos and scallions went beyond what's traditional. A slice of "torched" tuna clung to each piece, and spikes of green apple garnished the plate.

A less-impressive followup was the phyllo "cigar" filled with hunks of Indian-spiced chicken thigh. The chicken was inexplicably hot, as was the exterior of the cigar. The inside? Not so much. Because temperatures were so uneven, we question if it was previously cooked and quickly reheated.

Perhaps the short ribs, which are slow-roasted for 48 hours and served with Oaxacan mole, kobe strip loin with chipotle béarnaise or snapper with Asian-style pesto, moro-miso and wasabi-pepper sauce would have won our hearts. Of course, keeping it simple, as in a bone-in filet or rack of lamb, might be a good idea.

Desserts tended to be as elaborate as what preceded them. We went with the elegantly over-the-top take on baked Alaska: dulce de leche ice cream swathed in sponge cake and christened with meringue and passion fruit sauce. The duo of green tea and chai latte brûlée, while more straightforward, was equally enjoyable.

The beverage program is not to be overlooked. A large list of signature martinis (get the geisha martini with Absolut, pineapple and strawberry puree and vanilla garnished with an orchid) is augmented by a large, and in some cases crazy, expensive wine list. Its more pedestrian by-the-glass options start at $9, but the Captain's List of boutique bottles in some cases hovers near $2,000. The latter is where you'll find selections from Colgin and Hundred Acre.

Although it wasn't busy when we dined, there were gaps in service. However, everyone was friendly and welcoming, which helped us forgive some of the inconsistencies. There certainly were things we liked about this restaurant, but for the price it needs to be something closer to pitch-perfect.

• Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. Our aim is to describe the overall dining experience while guiding the reader toward the menu's strengths. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.

The exotic geisha martini at Zaidi's. Tanit Jarusan | Staff Photographer

Zaidi's bartender Tyfani Thornburg creates a geisha martini. Tanit Jarusan | Staff Photographer

Zaidi Syed owns Zaidi's restaurant in Naperville, where the Fire Fighter Roll is among the Asian- and Latin-influenced dishes. Tanit Jarusan | Staff Photographer

Naperville restaurant Zaidi's sports an impressive interior. Tanit Jarusan | Staff Photographer

Zaidi's 1975 Springbrook Square Drive, Naperville; (630) 355-4400; <a href="http://www.zaidisrestaurant.com" target="new">zaidisrestaurant.com</a> Cuisine: Asian- and Latin-infused steak, sushi and seafood Setting: Moody, low-lit boite Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday through Friday; dinner 4:30 to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 4:30 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; brunch 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Sunday Price range: Appetizers $9 to $15; soups and salads $6 to $16; nigiri, sashimi and maki $3 to $32; entrees $19 to $55; desserts $7 to $12 Accepts: Major credit cards

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