Citizen Kane, in former Geneva Theatre, provides a warm refuge
Those in search of a place to drink Guinness while watching the game or a spot to linger over food and extended conversation will find refuge at Citizen Kane Food & Spirits in Geneva.
American pub fare with Cajun undertones, friendly service and reasonable prices knock out a solid dining option in downtown Geneva.
Locals Rob McCool and Bryan Kimmell opened Citizen Kane in March 2007. The two friends had met a year earlier on a Metra train and created the business as a way to ditch their commutes to downtown Chicago. The narrow but spaciously inviting restaurant occupies the former lobby of the old Geneva movie theater. Chef Richard Fields, who lived in Florida for 25 years, brings the peninsula's Cajun touch to the cuisine.
Muted green walls and sunlight streaming through the windows make for a cheerful interior. Framed movie posters of Citizen Kane and photos of the old theater recall the past, while shiny wooden tabletops display a classic American sensibility. Our female server projected a comfortable blend of genuine friendliness and meticulous attention to detail.
Even though it was past 2 p.m. on a subzero Sunday in December, a diverse range of patrons filled Citizen Kane. A few older chaps at the bar drank Guinness while keeping an eye on the game; two women friends laughed in the booth parallel to ours; two families with teenagers munched on burgers. Steely Dan and Rolling Stones in the background provided a bit of entertainment at a pleasant decibel level.
Like the no-frills atmosphere, menu items lean toward the simple yet substantial. Buttery and creamy sauces, fresh herbs and Cajun kicks like jalapeños and seafood dominate the appetizers, sandwiches, salads and entrees.
The big mama of entrees, the grilled halibut steak, clocks in at $18.99. But a fair number of entrees fall below $13. Served with accompanying vegetable of the day and choice of rice, potato or chef side dish, these plates provide sound dining value.
Half a dozen appetizers bespeak Creole, so I opted for the steamed mussels out of New Orleans nostalgia. We decided on the olive tapenade with flatbread as an accompanying treat.
The tapenade arrived first. The robust green olives dominated without enough capers in the mixture to provide balance. The lackluster flatbread equally failed to impress. Next, our eight green-lip mussels arrived, served with slices of toasted French bread perfect for soaking up the white-wine sauce with garlic butter. While meaty and big, the mussels prove to be hit or miss - some perfectly tender while others a tad rubbery.
The top-selling jalapeño avocado bisque proved a wise choice. We inhaled the cups of hot heavy cream mixed with jalapeños and avocados. The smooth and creamy texture contained just the right hint of zip.
Salads included eclectic options such as quinoa with apples, pears, fennel and walnuts over field greens. The roasted beet salad disappointed, owing to the less-than-flavorful beets and candied pecans, which don't deliver the promised sweet and spicy. My companion suggested the balsamic dressing tastes like something out of the bottle. I agreed, stabbing my fork into the Caesar salad, a simple affair of fresh romaine hearts tossed with Caesar dressing, Parmesan and croutons.
I chose the polenta cakes out of curiosity. I enjoyed the juxtaposition of breaded polenta wedges alongside the thick tomato-basil sauce, and the goat cheese added depth. We noted the fresh and well-prepared grilled rainbow trout, a 12 oz. slab of meat served with tasty red beet and horseradish rémoulade.
Dessert finishes on a high note. The key lime pie had a creamy texture and a toothsome roasted macadamia nut crust. The warm chocolate tart oozed velvet molten lava.
Our server remained professional, amiable and astute throughout our leisurely long meal.
Although we preferred to stay, we finally headed back into the chill, our bellies pleasantly full.
• Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.
<p class="factboxheadblack">Citizen Kane</p> <p class="News">319 West State Street, Geneva</p> <p class="News">(630) 208-0500, <a href="http://www.ckgeneva.com" target="new">ckgeneva.com</a></p> <p class="News"><b>Cuisine:</b> American contemporary with Cajun flair</p> <p class="News"><b>Setting:</b> Casual cafe in the old Fargo building under the Geneva Theatre marquee in downtown Geneva.</p> <p class="News"><b>Prices:</b> Appetizers $2 to $9.49; sandwiches and salads $7.49 to $8.99; entrees $11.99 to $18.99; desserts $4.99; wine $6 to $9.50 by the glass, $24 to $35 by the bottle</p> <p class="News"><b>Hours:</b> 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Wednesday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Thursday through Saturday.</p> <p class="News"><b>Accepts:</b> Reservations, major credit cards</p> <p class="News"><b>Also:</b> Full bar; free parking</p>