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Cafe Havana: A hidden gem in Itasca

When it comes time to eat a meal on the fly, options are endless. Yet, somehow, the choices are seemingly the same. That's one of the reasons unassuming newcomer Cafe Havana is so appealing. Located in a generic strip mall next to a busty mannequin-outfitted intimate apparel store, it's easy to ignore. The thing is, that'd be a mistake.

Small, with just six tables, the space is warm with olive-toned and wood-paneled walls topped with candle sconces, a flat-screen (tuned to the Disney channel when we dined) and a long mirror. Beaded curtains help distance the room from its locale.

Probably more people opt to carry out at the restaurant, but dining in is a pleasant enough affair. Just grab a seat and begin perusing the laminated menus. Not sure what's what? Look above the counter, where pictures of Cuba's greatest (edible) hits are displayed.

We started with the Cuban platter, a sampler with papa rellena (ground meat encased in mashed potatoes and fried); slightly sweet ground ham-filled croquettes; tostones (smashed, fried plantains); a flat, rectangular pork and corn-studded tamale; savory beef empanadas encased in flaky pastry; and, last but not least, caramelized, pan-fried bananas. Sour cream and a tangy, slightly spicy dippers came alongside. Sound like a lot of food? It was.

If you're looking for these dishes individually, you'll find them, or you could try the platano relleno, stuffed, ripe banana filled with seasoned ground beef. The menu also offers up a basic house salad or chicken-noodle or black bean soup.

The restaurant makes its own Cuban bread, which is a true treat. Flat and crusty on the outside, it's warm and doughy inside. Unfortunately, as excited as we were to order the Cuban sandwich - filled with slow-roasted pork, ham, Swiss, mustard and pickles on the aforementioned bread - it lacked the zip and zing we're accustomed to.

In the case of the ropa vieja, however, flavors were on spot. The tender, shredded beef, swathed in rich tomato sauce, was worthy of a second helping. We opted for the dinner version but found the black beans on the side rather bland, so next time we'll head for the ropa vieja sandwich immediately.

Other sandwiches range from pork and grilled onion-packed pan con lechon to a steak sandwich with grilled onions and the biztec empanizado, breaded steak topped with lettuce, tomatoes and mayo.

In most cases, the dinner versions are offered as well, but entrees extend to include the El Capital, skirt steak filled with ham and cheese, sauced and crowned with shrimp. You'll also be tempted with spicy fajita-style shrimp, chicken stew and a combination platter with skirt steak, grilled chicken and shrimp.

For dessert, the slick, caramely flan is a must, but the comforting arroz con leche (rice pudding) is tasty, too. Kids (OK, anyone, really) will dig the milkshakes, which come in standard flavors as well as mango and mammee.

There's no booze served here, but you certainly can get a jolt from freshly brewed Cuban coffee. A popular option any time of day, the potent cups are especially ideal paired with breakfast offerings like ham and egg-filled emapadas or and omelet of plantains and Swiss.

And there's good news for those who prefer non-breakfast dishes in the a.m. or breakfast at night: the whole menu is offered throughout restaurant hours.

Sure, we didn't get us hot and bothered about everything we tried, but we loved many things about this place and can't wait to see what happens once it settles into the neighborhood.

Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. Our aim is to describe the overall dining experience while guiding the reader toward the menu's strengths. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.

Cafe Havana

Location: 5N105 Rte. 53, Itasca; (630) 773-8822

Cuisine: Cuban

Setting: Quick serve, casual cafe

Hours: Monday through Thursday 9 a.m. until 10 p.m., Friday through Saturday 9 a.m. until midnight, Sunday 9 a.m. until 6 p.m.

Price Range: Appetizers $2 to $10.95, Soups and Salads $2.99 to $4, Sandwiches $3.75 to $5.25, Entrees $8.99 to $18.99, Desserts $3 to $3.50

Credit Cards: Major credit cards

Cafe Havana in Itasca Bev Horne | Staff Photographer
The Ropa Vieja dinner and a Cuban soft drink, at Cafe Havana in Itasca. Bev Horne | Staff Photographer
The Cuban Platter appetizer at Cafe Havana in Itasca. Also shown is a tropical soft drink from Cuba that is hard to find in the U.S. Bev Horne | Staff Photographer
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