Body type should determine jacket length, not current trend
Q. I try to make one jacket each season; they are the most important part of my wardrobe. I love to mix and match them with skirts and pants. I am looking for one with a Mandarin collar, which is more flattering for scrawny necks.
Lynne A.
A. I have selected Vogue 8161, sized 6-20. The pattern actually features three different collar details. It's simple, yet very attractive and can be worn with skirts or pants. I especially love the Oriental touch of the frogs for closings!
Q. What is the fashionable length for jackets this fall? I often shorten jackets to follow what I see in ready-to-wear.
Marsha J.
A. This year you will see every length possible, from very, very short to very long. Please be honest with yourself about your own body type, and don't just follow what some fashion guru tells you to wear. I would put on the skirt or pants you will be wearing, and pin the jacket up and try it on. The whole effect is important. Also, the heels of your shoes can make a real difference. Some jackets look better with pants than skirts. The right length can make or break your look. Find a length that looks right on you, and you will have a winner!
Q. Recently I discovered I have osteoporosis. Ready-to-wear doesn't do a thing for me. What basic changes must I make to my patterns to camouflage this look?
Felicia C.
A. This is a very large subject to try to cover in a few words. I'll highlight a few adjustments. You will have to work to perfect the changes you make in your pattern before cutting your fabric.
This problem affects your physical posture, causes loss of height, curvature of the spine, rounding of the shoulders, loss of your waistline and a protruding abdomen, which can make it difficult and sometimes impossible to find clothes that fit.
I have found that patterns with princess seamlines help disguise the problems because you can nip them in and out at your trouble spots. Back yokes can help by adding fullness below the yoke. Raglan sleeves or dropped shoulders with loose sleeves give a more relaxed look. Always make a mock-up of your pattern to see what adjustments are obvious, and begin to fit these areas. Overfitting is often a mistake because it calls attention to your defect. Curve the hems of jackets slightly longer in the back to compensate for your curvature.
Helpful sewing hint
Each week, a reader wins a prize for sending in a helpful sewing hint. This week's winner is Cindy Taylor of Clearwater, Fla. She will receive a collection of 100 hand-sewing needles from England. From the finest of fabrics to the heaviest, you will have the right needle at hand! Her tip: "When attaching buttons, snaps or hooks to your garment, cut off a very long piece of thread, fold it in half, and thread the eye of the needle. Next, match the cut end to the folded end and knot it. Now, when you attach it to your garment, each pass through is like sewing with four threads. If you restitch again, you will have enough strength to hold them permanently! It saves a lot of time and also makes it more secure."