Longer length of coat dress adds instant height to wearer
Q. I make most of my clothes because I am very short and most ready-to-wear swamps me! I would like to make a coat ensemble or one that can double as a coat dress -- the longer length seems to give me height. Can you suggest a pattern? I haven't seen one.
Meg W.
A. I have selected an old favorite -- which is out of print but may be purchased online at www.voguepatterns.com -- Vogue 8187, sized 6-20. It has very simple lines, flattering bust darts that angle from the side seam, and a great idea for edging the fronts that will give you instant height!
You can wear it buttoned or open. Apply a contrasting band to the fronts and sleeves (optional), and you'll have a great designer look that you will love!
Q. Now that the patterns show a closer fit instead of the oversized look, I am having trouble with the placement of bust darts. The last garment I made gapes open at the bust. What can I do to avoid this?
Kay C.
A. Forget the button placement on your pattern. Try the garment on and place a pin at the largest point of your bust. You must have a button at this spot. You may have to add an extra button, and you will definitely have to remeasure the spaces for a more flattering look. Patterns simply give us a general idea; we must tweak them to fit our individual figures. This is a great plus to the time we spend making our clothes.
Q. Is there a rule about how far the crease in your pants should be pressed? I think I press it too far and there is a bulge below the end of my darts.
Shirley M.
A. I have always told my students to press the crease to about 8 inches from the waistline This will avoid the darts of pleats in the pants, both front and back. The easiest way to press the crease perfectly is to press it before you construct the pants, you'll always press on the grainline!
Helpful sewing hint
Each week, a reader wins a prize for sending in a helpful sewing hint. This week's winner is Marilyn Kirkland of Fayetteville, Ga. She will receive a collection of 100 hand-sewing needles from England. From the finest of fabrics to the heaviest, you will have the right needle at hand! Her tip: "Match your thread and bobbin in the same color and place them in a small plastic bag. They are always together when needed. It sure saves time!" (Thanks to many of you who have sent me the same tip!)
© 2007, Cowles Syndicate Inc.