Black Steer Charhouse appeals with familiar fare, friendly prices

In a space that once housed Charlie's Charhouse, Black Steer has taken over the reigns as of last August, taking time to transition the space and menu. It's a partnership between Mary Venezia and Jim Panagakis, the latter of whom runs several area restaurants, among them Johnny's Kitchen & Tap in Glenview.

Does anything seem terribly different about the place? No. But it's a reliable, know-what-you'll-get experience. Trimmed with dark wood, it does a bustling lunch business with a khaki-clad crowd that gives way to families come evening.

The menu, as the restaurant's name implies, is meat-heavy, though things get kicked up a notch with wood-roasted proteins (Greek or barbecue chicken, ribs), as well as topping-encrusted steaks.

We began with a properly executed, cheesy-topped vat of French onion soup. The rich, comforting broth was everything we needed and expected. And the plump shrimp de Jonghe? It was pooled in a bath of garlic butter goodness.

The other starters, while not far-reaching, are pleasing to the masses: fried shrimp with house-made tartar and cocktail sauces, Italian sausage-topped flatbread and, yes, potato skins.

Salads shouldn't be ruled out, though. There's a respectable all-but-the-kitchen-sink chopped, a wood-roasted chicken number with Asiago and cranberries and a hefty skirt steak with blue cheese and peperoncini. But because entrees come with salad (or a Greek or Caesar version for a $3 up-charge), choose wisely.

It's hard to come here without getting steak. And while they may not be the most serious cuts around town, they're also not the priciest. We opted for the trio of 3-ounce filet medallions, individually topped with crumbled blue cheese, horseradish crust and garlicky herb-butter al forno. Unfortunately, the meat — requested medium-rare — arrived closer to medium-well. The flavors were great, though.

Still a better — and certainly more affordable bet — is the wood-roasted Mary V's chicken, which arrives crackly with a tangy balsamic reduction, pickled and bell peppers and plenty of garlic. At $14.95, it's a real steal.

Sides are steakhouse standard: sautéed mushrooms, garlic-Asiago mashed potatoes and loaded baked or mashed potatoes, crammed with bacon and cheddar. Meals, which come with soup or salad, also include a choice of potato, rice pilaf or veggies.

For those so inclined, there's also a pasta section boasting chicken parmigiana and spaghetti with marinara as well as another header, with seafood-leanings. Wallet-watchers also will appreciate the hefty 10-ounce burgers and sandwiches, such as a filet or skirt steak, that are a step up from your normal family eatery.

We finished with some pucker-inducing Key lime pie and a slab of light-as-air tiramisu. Nothing wacky, just good stuff.

When the weather gets warm, a patio will expand the already plentiful eating. Adding to the list of appeals, Wi-Fi will be available, and bar appetizers can be had for $5 Sunday through Thursday. Offering more than a consolation for their absence on weekends is live music.

Oh, and there's breakfast on Sundays, as well as Monday through Friday drink specials, churned from the full bar. The lunch menu is pretty much a replica of dinner, but with sometimes-lower prices, made attractive, no doubt, to its midday business clientele.

As for service, it's professional and friendly, wrapping up the experience in a neat, if familiar, package. The difference is Black Steer isn't part of a big, 'ol chain. And that's a good thing.

• Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. The Daily Herald does not review restaurants it cannot recommend.

Black Steer Charhouse

1180 W. Devon Ave., Elk Grove Village; (847) 923-5000; blacksteercharhouse.com

<b>Cuisine:</b> Casual, bustling steakhouse

<b>Setting:</b> Masculine, boisterous and family-friendly

<b>Entrees:</b> $7.95 to $29.95

<b>Hours:</b> 11 a.m. to midnight Monday to Saturday; 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday