Don't call it after-taste; it's the 'finish'

"I don't like that after-taste I get from wine."

When I hear this phrase, I know it's time to amend someone's wine drinking habits.

In wine-speak, after-taste is called "finish." The finish is the sum of sensations remaining in the mouth after swallowing wine (or, in professional circles, spitting,) and not liking it means missing out on one of the most intriguing aspects of wine enjoyment.

A wine's finish is like the glow on the horizon after the sun sets. It's the reverberation throughout the music hall after the last strains of a symphony have been played. It's your last glimpse of that super-cute guy or gal, as they're walking away.

To experience the finish, slurp a little wine as you would hot soup, pulling oxygen into your mouth along with liquid. Hold the wine in your mouth and smack it around the whole palate. (Amongst wine pros, accompanying noises are permitted, even expected; in a public dining room, not so much.) Swallow (or spit.) Now, WAIT. Don't talk, don't think, just wait. Over the next few seconds, sensations will rise on the palate -- maybe tart, maybe bitter. This is the finish.

Technically, the finish should resolve the wine's previous expressions. For instance, a well-made Cabernet Sauvignon will have rich aromas and a mouth-coating palate followed by a finish that wraps up all sensations with a "grip" of tannin -- similar to the bitter-astringency of bittersweet chocolate. Well-made Riesling's finish focuses ripe fruit aroma and a palate made silky by fruit extract with tooth-tingling acidity. (See Ross' Choice.)

A finish that's out of sync with previous sensations is a red flag, signaling less-than-perfect production. Cabernet that starts rich but finishes watery may be the result of a rainy vintage. Riesling that finishes like simple syrup may have received flavor from added sugar, not natural grape sugar ripened by the sun.

Apart from technical analysis, wine's finish prepares the mouth for what's next. Cabernet's tannin grips a mouthful of steak, cleansing the palate of meaty fat. Riesling's acid adds refreshment to a bite of shrimp, as would a squeeze of lemon.

Here are some basic characteristics of wine's finish, with suggestions of wines to avoid and seek out:

A tart or sour finish stems from wine's many acids. Wine with a tart finish is often grown in a cool climate with sunshine and warmth just-sufficient to barely-ripen grapes. If you're an acid freak like me, explore wines from northern Europe (including Austria and Alpine Italy) and New Zealand. Avoid wines from the sunny climes of California, Australia and southern Italy.

Astringent, bitter sensations indicate tannin. Tannin is generally found in red wine, having been transmitted, along with color, from red grape skins.

If you love other tannic foodstuff, such as espresso, seek out wine with deep red color, including Cabernet Sauvignon and most Italian reds like Chianti. Skip white and light red wines, including Pinot Noir and Beaujolais. (Medical studies suggest added healthy benefits from deep red wine because red grape skins also contain the heart-healthy antioxidant resveratrol.)

A burning finish stems from alcohol. If you enjoy vodka or other high-octane drinks, you're in luck!

Most New World wines sport alcohol of 14 percent and up, vinified from extra ripe grapes grown in sunny California, Chile and Australia. If burning pain is not your pleasure, turn to the Old World and check the label's fine print for alcohol at or under 13 percent.

Whereas all wine has a more-or-less pleasant finish, great wine is set apart by a finish that develops and complexes for many minutes -- sometimes hours -- after the swallow. These are wines that live in the imagination -- sort of like that super-cute guy turning around to be certain you're still watching as he walks away.

Ross' choice

Clean Slate Riesling

2005

Moselland

Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany

• Suggested retail and availability: About $11 at liquor and wine stores

Not too dry, not too sweet, this Riesling balances ripe nectarine fruit with green apple tartness with a sprinkle of the mineral flavors (specifically slate) that distinguish the Mosel as one of the world's great wine lands. It also balances the sweet-spice flavors of Asian-inspired dishes, such as miso-glazed salmon, stir-fried beef with cashews and sesame chicken with spicy peanut sauce. Say goodbye to year 4705 and welcome the Year of the Rat with a clean slate and Clean Slate.