Mario Trattoria picks up where Arenella left off

Fans of Ristorante Arenella were disappointed when the longtime restaurant was forced to leave its Palatine home, but they now have reason to celebrate: The Italian dishes they loved are back - served up with a new name and a very different setting.

Mario Trattoria opened over the summer in downtown Arlington Heights. It's far smaller and a lot more hidden than the spacious spot Arenella most recently occupied along busy Rand Road; it's much more similar in fact to the storefront space that owners Mario and Rosa Longobardi started with about 20 years back.

The decor is simple yet sophisticated, with warm walls painted in shades of gold and chestnut. A dark-wood bar is at the back.

The look may have changed, but the food has not: It's as hearty and enjoyable as ever.

The appetizer section of the menu relies heavily on seafood. Calamari comes either fried or grilled, clams are offered both baked and sauteed. Mussels, meanwhile, can be simmered in a garlic white wine sauce or sauteed with garlic in tomato sauce.

We started instead with Mario's bruschetta. Crisp, oven-toasted slices of bread come piled high with fresh diced tomatoes seasoned with garlic and sweet basil. Each generous helping is topped by a thick pillow of fresh mozzarella. The mix of flavors and textures is just right.

Another hit: roasted red peppers sauteed with capers and Kalamata olives. The dish arrived slightly warm with a light dusting of parmesan cheese. Each bite delivered a rush of flavor.

Picking a dinner option off Mario's menu can be a bit daunting. You've got your pastas, as well as pastas topped with seafood, veal done nearly a dozen different ways, plenty of traditional chicken dishes and a small selection of steaks.

We went with the popular chicken Marsala. Tender, juicy chicken breasts are sauteed with mushrooms and served in a memorable Marsala sauce. It's rich, but not heavy - and offers the perfect hint of sweetness. Like most of Mario's dishes, this one easily provides leftovers.

Papa's homemade gnocchi was also an excellent choice. Plump, filling potato dumplings were topped with melted mozzarella but lightened a bit by a pleasant tomato basil sauce. The result was good and gooey, a true hit with my gnocchi-loving teenager.

Entrees come with a choice of soup or house salad. The latter is a nice mix of crisp greens, tomato and red onions tossed in a zesty Italian dressing. We sampled both of the soups. The chicken tortellini was fine, but not nearly as satisfying as the minestrone. A full bowl of flavor-packed broth teems with peas, carrots, cabbage and other vegetables. It is a must-have on a cold night.

Dessert options run toward the traditional with cannoli, gelato and chocolate mousse cake. The tiramisu was surprisingly light, though the rum flavor came on a little strong.

The restaurant doesn't yet have a liquor license, so for now it's bring your own with a $7 corkage fee.

Mario Trattoria, like Arenella, is a family affair. Mario's in the kitchen, Rosa's out front and other members of the family pitch in as well. It's warm and friendly, and I found our service excellent.

So here's hoping it won't take long for Arenella fans to find Mario - and for the new spot to develop a following all its own.

Mario Trattoria

6 S. Dunton Ave., Arlington Heights, (847) 577-2840

Cuisine: Hearty Italian fare

Setting: Simple yet sophisticated

Entrees: $9 to $39

Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday to Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday

Accepts: Reservations for parties of six or more; major credit cards