Over more than a half century, regulars still flock to York Tavern
It's just half past 4 p.m. on a Wednesday, and the York Tavern in Oak Brook is packed to the gills.
Located in a historic, 162-year-old red house, the York Tavern lies on the rolling banks of the DuPage River in southeast Oak Brook, at the busy intersection of York and Old Mill roads. Vito and Mariana Moreci, along with their children Pasquale and Rosalia, have run the business since 2004, when they purchased the building and surrounding land.
Dark wood, a cavernous ceiling and low lighting create an unpretentious, rustic interior, with just 65 seats divided among low tables and bar stools. The diminutive space paves the way for intimacy and confidential conversation. Three widescreen TVs blare ESPN and Fox News, and country music plays in the background, lower than the sound of patrons' chitchat over drinks.
In existence for over 50 years, the York Tavern still attracts a stable of regulars, evident in the copious number of locals here for the socializing factor. Two middle-aged women discuss matters over several glasses of chardonnay, and up at the bar, an all-ages crowd - from those in their 30s through patrons in their 60s - swap stories over beers and cranberry and vodka cocktails.
The no-frills menu takes its cues from American pub fare classics. A preponderance of the deep-fried and the cheese-laden monopolize the selection of appetizers, sandwiches and burgers. Moreci's Italian influence in the cuisine comes through the thin-crust, deep-dish and house specialty pizzas.
The big daddy in price ($26.25) turns out to be the 18-inch house specialty pizza, available in margherita, vegetarian or pizza Bianca versions. But most sandwiches include fries or potato chips and coleslaw for under $10, a solid dining value.
Eleven appetizers of the deep-fried assortment hail back to the days before cholesterol was a concern. We bypassed the onion rings and jalapeño poppers in favor of the salads and the chicken soup.
Our starters arrive promptly, served with Styrofoam and plastic plates and cutlery. The soup reflects homemade goodness in the chunks of tender white chicken meat, celery, farfalle bow-tie pasta and savory, flavorful broth.
The Caesar salad, while fresh, fails to impress. Dressing that tastes like the mock variety slathered over the greens, croutons and shredded cheese is no substitute for the real deal.
The house salad proves more authentic, a Moreci recipe of romaine with tomato, cucumber, onion and black olives, topped with olive oil and vinegar dressing.
Entrees emphasize meat, fish and fowl. The substantially sized hamburger patty - served on a white-bread bun with thick slabs of tomato, pickle and onions - delivered uncomplicated comfort. Chips served as a delectable and crispy accompaniment. The coleslaw, creamy and fresh, scored another win.
The tilapia sandwich provided a welcome alternative to the usual bar food culprits. The large doughy roll smothered the grilled fillet somewhat, but nevertheless remained a solid supper choice.
Disappointingly, the pizza did not live up to its appetizingly good looks. The baby (10-inch) thin crust with artichokes arrived piping hot and cut neatly into squares, the cheese generously covering the pie in mouthwatering fashion. Yet upon tasting we couldn't help notice the bland and hollow crust, and the unexciting, slightly acidic tomato sauce.
The homemade chili made up for what we lacked in the pizza. Ground beef, kidney beans and a zippy tomato base came together for sheer satisfaction.
Finally, two slices of creamy and rich cheesecake ended a classic American meal on a chipper note.
Our server was bubbly and quick on her game throughout our stay.
Upon departing we see that the place is already full of new patrons. The two chardonnay drinkers next to us have been replaced by another set; these women catch up over beers. A table full of happy hour co-workers takes refuge in pitchers of Dos Equis.
• Restaurant reviews are based on one anonymous visit. The Daily Herald does not publish reviews of restaurants it cannot recommend.
<p class="factboxheadblack">York Tavern</p> <p class="News">3702 York Road, Oakbrook, (630) 323-5090</p> <p class="News"><b>Cuisine:</b> American pub fare</p> <p class="News"><b>Setting:</b> Casual neighborhood tavern on York Road, just a stone's throw from the historic Graue Mill. </p> <p class="News"><b>Price range:</b> Appetizers $1.75 to $7.95; sandwiches and salads $3.50 to $13.25; entrees $2.75 to $25.25; dessert $6; wine $6 by the glass; $14 to $22 by the bottle.</p> <p class="News"><b>Hours:</b> 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Monday through Friday; 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Saturday; 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sunday.</p> <p class="News"><b>Accepts:</b> Major credit cards</p> <p class="News">Full bar; free parking</p>