Mississippi River town tugs on visitors' wanderlust
Men don't wear ties much anymore, especially when going out to dinner, but should you decide to visit Le Claire, Iowa, about 15 miles upriver from Davenport, pack the most garish, forgettable tie in your collection.
Be prepared to bid it adieu at Sneaky Pete's Cowboy Steaks, a quirky eatery on the west bank of the Mississippi. Your host will stop by your table prepared to snip off this neckwear to display from the ceiling as part of a collection of about 4,000 trophy ties.
Although Sneaky Pete's has little respect for neckwear, it does have enormous regard for prime meat, such as flavorful steaks (including a 28-ounce porterhouse) and pork chops cooked over smoked wood chips. The eatery is housed in a building dating to the 1830s that once was a hotel. It retains an original tin ceiling, complete with -- according to the owners -- "a few bullet holes."
During the 19th century, Le Claire was home to a special breed of river pilot, those with the knowledge and expertise to negotiate 13 miles of treacherous rapids snaking through the river between Le Claire and Davenport. Those bold pilots built fine homes in Le Claire that in 1979 were recognized as part of the nine-block Cody Road Historic District listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Most were built between 1850 and 1870 and can be viewed on a self-guided tour.
Le Claire's funky attractions include the Buffalo Bill Museum, where you'll learn the simple secret of "Buffalo Bill" Cody's crack shooting (think "scattershot"). You can watch a short video about him and view mementos that include advertising posters and a photograph of the flamboyant showman and friend ("Deadwood" fans alert) "Wild Bill" Hickok.
You'll also learn about the history of this region of the Mississippi Valley and view a section of the famous "Green Tree" elm. About 225 years old, this massive tree provided a shady spot where Le Claire's legendary "rapids' pilots" met with steamboat clients. In 1920, the tree was placed on the American Forestry Association's register of famous trees. In 1964, it was lost to Dutch Elm Disease.
For more about the rapids' pilots, take a 45-minute ride on the Mississippi with Capt. John Vize aboard the aptly named Riversong. This skipper not only introduces you to river lore and legend, but also sings river songs (including a rendition of "Old Man River" delivered in a passably deep bass).
The Riversong was built in 1959 as a canal tour boat on New York state's Erie Canal. Carrying a maximum of 24 passengers, the sprightly craft is ideal for poking around inlets and islands along the Mississippi. The skipper is an entertaining narrator, pointing out landmarks and recalling the days of the rapids' pilots.
Le Claire's business section, though small, is highly conducive to browsing, with chic, contemporary shops. It's the kind of place that invites you to stop for afternoon tea (or an iced coffee concoction) or a pre-dinner martini or kir. Among a selection of stylish galleries and boutiques is Artswork, featuring handmade contemporary clothing and accessories, jewelry, clocks and glass.
Stop at Lydia's Coffeehouse Cafe for soup, a well-made sandwich (packed into home-baked bread) or coffee and a wedge of pie. Back in 1890, the building housed city hall and its jail, the latter to be recalled downstairs at the Jailhouse Bistro, now in the planning stage. The cafe retains 90 percent of the original oak floors. When the weather is inviting, find a table on a small patio overlooking the river. (Lydia's does a good job with boxed lunches to carry aboard the Riversong.)
Stylish Faithful Pilot Cafe attracts oenophiles with wine-tasting events, support of local vintners and a balanced wine list. It also offers an appealing menu with entrees such as pork chop with spiced rum-peach pan sauce, barbecued soy-ginger and sesame-crusted tuna and pan-seared prime petite rib-eye and sea scallops. The eatery offers well-made pastas, such as seafood linguine and Cajun-style fettuccine. Appetizers include mussels in saffron, tomato, garlic and herb broth and crab and crawfish cake with smoked bacon.
Le Claire also is home port for the triple-decked Twilight, a replica of the lavish Victorian steamships that once traveled the Mississippi. With a rounded stern and ornate architectural detailing, Twilight is a reminder of the classic riverboats that Mark Twain called "floating palaces." Twilight offers overnight cruises between Le Claire and Dubuque.
There's a quirky annual event focused around Le Claire, as Iowa teams represent the west bank of the Mississippi in an annual tug-of-war across the river against competing teams from the Illinois town of Port Byron. Tug Fest (early August) began as a bar wager and now attracts 40,000 visitors to an event with live entertainment, a mega fireworks display and tug-of-war teams pulling mightily on a 2,400-foot-long, 680-pound rope stretching across the river.
If you go
Information: Quad Cities Convention & Visitors Bureau, (800) 747-7800, www.visitquadcities.com; Iowa Tourism, (800) 345-4692, www.traveliowa.com; Illinois Tourism, (800) 226-6632, www.enjoyillinois.com.
Mileage: Le Claire is about 165 miles west of Chicago.
Mike Michaelson is a travelwriter based in Chicago andthe author of the guidebook"ChicagoÃcent;â#130;not;â#132;cent;s Best-Kept Secrets."