Find Lincoln, Truman, Sandburg and all that jazz in Galesburg

As presidential campaigns unfold hot and heavy, you can get a little perspective on political debates and politicking in general with a visit to the Illinois prairie town of Galesburg (population 33,237). You might catch one or more of the current crop of presidential aspirants on the stump.

If you plan your visit for March 13-15, you also can attend the Rootabaga Jazz Festival. Perfect for a late-winter getaway, it brings together national and international jazz performers and musicians from Galesburg's own Knox College.

The "Old Main" administration building at Knox College was the site in 1858 of the fifth of the famous Lincoln-Douglas senatorial debates. An estimated 10,000 people turned out to witness Abraham Lincoln and Stephen Douglas face off as they sought a seat in the U.S. Senate. "Old Main," completed in 1851, has the distinction of being the only building still standing where a Lincoln-Douglas debate was held.

Another energetic campaigner, Harry S. Truman, also drew a large crowd as he traveled America on his famed "Whistlestop Tour." They showed up to greet him when his train arrived at Galesburg's CB&Q depot. Bill Clinton also visited Galesburg, and Ronald Reagan was a first- and second-grade student at an elementary school still in use.

Galesburg is a historic city, tucked into the gently rolling hills and lush green valleys of the rich prairies and fertile agricultural land of western Illinois. It is a charming town where Victorian homes and broad, leafy, brick-paved streets line its historic district.

The Rootabaga Jazz Festival has been repeated annually since 1980. Venues are McGillacuddy's Restaurant and the restored Orpheum Theatre, opened in 1916 as a vaudeville house (the Marx brothers, George Burns and Houdini played there).

Opening night at the restaurant (admission $7) features four sets by members of the Knox College Faculty and Friends combo. Friday night at the same venue features the Knox Jazz Ensemble Alumni performing big-band charts. Guest artists are the Renegades, a Chicago jazz/rock fusion group ($10).

On Saturday night the action shifts to the historic Orpheum stage, featuring the Knox Jazz Ensemble. Guest performers the Hilaril Duran Trio play modern jazz arrangements with traditional Cuban elements. Cuban-born Duran spent many years playing jazz piano for Arturo Sandoval and now is a Canadian citizen ($14-$16).

Visitors are invited to attend (at no charge) non-competitive clinics held on Saturday, featuring more than 300 area and regional high school and junior high musicians who perform for festival guest artists. Outstanding student musicians are awarded Knox College music scholarships and Western Illinois University summer jazz camp scholarships.

Railroads brought prosperity to Galesburg, beginning with the arrival of the first train on Dec. 7, 1854. The Galesburg Railroad Museum (open April through November) recounts the golden era of rail travel and soon will become home to the National Railroad Hall of Fame.

Galesburg's most famous native son, Carl Sandburg, was born on Jan. 6, 1878, in a modest three-room cottage. His father was a Swedish immigrant, a stern man who never learned to write and who worked as a blacksmith's helper in the railway roundhouse 10 hours a day earning 14 cents an hour and came home with his shirt soaked with sweat.

Carl Sandburg became Lincoln's most celebrated biographer, authoring a six-volume biography, of which four volumes, "Abraham Lincoln: The War Years," won him the Pulitzer Prize in 1940.

Enclosed by a white picket fence, the cottage is part of the Carl Sandburg State Historic Site, open year-round. A visitor center and gift shop stand next to the birthplace. Adjacent is a small wooded park and perennial garden where a Quotation Walk leads visitors through the garden to Sandburg's grave. Quotes from his writing are engraved in the stepping stones, lasting testimony to the lyricism and poignancy of this poet of the prairies who described Chicago as the "city of big shoulders."

Shoppers head for Seminary Street, just a couple of blocks from the festival venues. Browse through a variety of antique and specialty stores and be sure to stop at the Galesburg Civic Arts Center that displays work from local and national artisans. If you're into trendy "bling" or classic silver jewelry, you'll find both -- and much more -- at more than a score of jewelry shops. And when you're ready for a break, there are cafes ready with gourmet coffee, cinnamon rolls and such. Or relax in a wine bar (with cheeses to nibble on, and a wine garden for warm weather).

Seminary Street is one of the Midwest's inspiring success stories in downtown restoration. Buildings once abandoned now thrive, adapted to use as restaurants, distinctive specialty shops, a day spa, bakery and a clutch of antique and collectibles dealers.

Carnivores head for the Packinghouse Dining Company, occupying a turn-of-the-last-century packing plant. The main dining room once was a spacious walk-in cooler. Check out the overhead refrigeration lines and meat rails still in place. This eatery is especially known for its flavorful prime rib and steaks.

In the 1880s, when Sandburg was still a young lad, the building now occupied by the Landmark Cafe and Creperie began its long history as, among others, cigar factory, pawn shop, print shop, clothing store, tobacco shop and bookstore. Today, with the original tin ceiling still in place, it is the spot for omelets, waffles, pancakes and crepes prepared in the European fashion on an open grill.

If you go

Information: Galesburg Area Convention and Visitors Bureau, (309) 343-2485, (800) 916-3330, www.visitgalesburg.com; Illinois Bureau of Tourism, (800) 226-6632, www.enjoyillinois.com.

Mileage: Galesburg is about 195 miles southwest of Chicago.

Mike Michaelson is a travelwriter based in Chicago andthe author of the guidebook"Chicago's Best-Kept Secrets."