'Lonely, wild' mating call lures birders to Wisconsin fest
In a few weeks it will be show time at Buena Vista Grasslands in central Wisconsin, and now might be a good time to book a front-row seat.
Those interested in catching this extravaganza -- a ritual mating dance staged by male prairie chickens -- will need to rise early and be at an observation blind about two hours before sunrise. This, itself, is a show worth seeing, as the wan sun of early spring paints the horizon with delicate, wispy shades of pink.
To celebrate the mating season, the third annual Prairie Chicken Festival (April 18-20) will be held at locations in several counties in central Wisconsin. Although the funky-sounding festival is the stuff of a fun outing, it also provides an excellent opportunity to commune with nature as you learn about threatened wildlife species and assist in conservation. You'll also find events designed to please art fanciers and literature lovers as well as activities for youngsters.
In pioneer times, prairies of the American heartland were thick with prairie chickens. A member of the grouse family, they were hunted for the table and as sport. By the middle of the 19th century, rail shipments of game birds to city markets, including prairie chickens, were measured in tons.
Wisconsin provided extensive habitat for this prairie fowl and at the dawn of the 20th century, the greater prairie chicken was present in every Wisconsin county. In 1930, when Herbert Hoover minted his presidential promise of "a chicken in every pot," there were fewer of these particular chickens to go around (with a total population of about 54,000). As their habitat dwindled, so did their numbers.
As early as 1917, Wisconsin placed a four-year moratorium on hunting the species; in 1955, it was outlawed totally. In 1979, the species was listed as "threatened" in Wisconsin. Careful management has brought the current population of this non-migratory bird to an estimated 1,200 birds living on 15,000 managed acres. Greater prairie chickens are unique to the grasslands of North America -- and found nowhere else.
One of the best-known aspects of this prairie fowl is its resonant, "booming" mating call. It is a sound that inspired the scientific name of the species, Tympanuchus cupido pinnatus, "drummer of love."
"It is a lonely, wild sound made by a lonely, wild bird," according to an anonymous observation published by Friends of the Chicken in Illinois. "It is the last fading voice of the prairie wilderness crying for help. When it is gone, it shall be gone forever."
Focus of the festival is on learning through art, science and literature. Activities include guided grasslands birding tours, bird banding and radio telemetry demonstrations, readings by local authors from their works about conservation and rural life and wildlife crafts for children. Included are dance performances, a Nature Art Crawl, video cam views of nesting raptors and wildlife management demonstrations.
Undoubtedly, though, the highlight for many is watching male prairie chickens strut their stuff in the light of early dawn. As they perform courtship dances they inflate orange sacs on the side of the throat to make a booming sound heard up to a mile away.
Six wooden blinds on the booming grounds are each designed to accommodate four persons. They are available not only during the festival, but also throughout the month of April (for a total of 720 seats). Be sure to dress in warm layers and bring a flashlight and a seat cushion for the hard wooden bench. You'll receive instructions and materials to conduct a census as you do your part in prairie chicken conservation. Expect to spend three hours in the blind (and be ready for a Dutch oven breakfast after you're done).
Also occupying these scattered grasslands are hawks and owls, songbirds, sandhill cranes and upland sandpipers, as well as badgers, red fox and coyotes. Other grassland bird species on view include bobolink, dickcissel and Henslow's sparrow. Perhaps you'll spot plover chicks as, in the words of famed conservationist Aldo Leopold, "they scamper through the grass like mice on stilts." Remarkably, at 30 days plovers are full-grown.
Lodging choices abound at Wisconsin Rapids, including the luxurious Hotel Mead and Conference Center. Built with paper-industry money, this is as fine a hostelry as you'll find outside a major metropolitan area. It offers 157 indulgent guest rooms and suites, two restaurants, indoor pool, sauna and fitness center.
Lake Aire Supper Club, on the south edge of town, is typical of the genre, a locally popular spot for steaks and comfort foods. Friday features a traditional Wisconsin fish fry (with beer-battered haddock or perch); Saturday is the night for slow-roasted prime rib. Garlicky shrimp scampi is a specialty, as are fall-off-the-bone baby back ribs glazed with bourbon-based sauce.
Another locally popular eatery is The Lure Bar and Grill, located at Rome on the shores of Lake Petenwell. Its Friday fish fry is served all day and features cod, perch and shrimp in various combos. Thin-crust pizza is a specialty, as are burgers smothered with mushrooms and a variety of toasted sandwiches, including Philly steak, smoked Cuban with shredded pork and country pot roast.
If you go
Information: Golden Sands Resource Conservation & Development Council Inc., (715) 343-6215, www.goldensandsrcd.org; Wisconsin Rapids Area CVB, (800) 554-4484, www.visitwisrapids.com; Wisconsin Department of Tourism, (800) 432-8747, www.travelwisconsin.com.
Mileage: Wisconsin Rapids is about 250 miles northwest of Chicago.
Mike Michaelson is a travelwriter based in Chicago andthe author of the guidebook"Chicago's Best-Kept Secrets."