Sansaveria whisks diners away on culinary journey

These days, most people - by virtue of necessity - are staying close to home, opting to take their "departures" whenever and wherever they can. That's where a place like Sansaveria comes in.

Bartlett's Sansaveria affords a self-proclaimed "evening across the Atlantic," and its menu is an amalgamation of European flavors. Likewise, its setting ranges from a romantic dining room to an outdoor patio and casual cafe with a Parisian streetscape vibe.

Intimate with a fireplace, it's outfitted with warm burgundy walls and cherry wood or wicker seating at white-clothed tables. The bar and main dining room are divided by recognizable, etched images of various landmarks; an image of the Eiffel Tower on one wall further drives the point home.

As for what the kitchen is serving up, it, too, aims high. Executive Chef John Hennessy knows a thing or two about the biz: Over the years, he worked with Charlie Trotter and Wolfgang Puck and recently owned a namesake restaurant nearby.

We started with an order of lightly fried, tender calamari with roasted tomato sauce, which was everything you'd expect it to be. The restaurant's namesake salad, on the other hand, offered a pleasant surprise in the form of mixed greens, oranges, strawberries and almonds in bright pomegranate dressing.

Mussels in white wine with shallots, parsley and tomatoes (also available as an entree), baked goat cheese croustades with tomato-basil sauce and sherry-infused French onion soup are options as well.

Crepes, prepped at a crepe station, are poised for bigger things, since owners Rakesh and Sarina Chopra are franchisers of Canada-based Crepe Delicious. Our advice: Don't pass by the spoon-tender braised beef version with pearl onions and nutty Gruyère. Other choices include grilled vegetable; asparagus, chevre and arugula with white wine sauce; and a take on chicken Marsala with mushrooms.

Steaks are featured prominently on the menu. We recommend the seriously good, high-quality filet au poivre, which comes with crisp pomme frites. (It can be done up with brandy-peppercorn demi-glace as well.) There's also flat iron steak alongside Roquefort cheese sauce and grilled salmon with lemon beurre blanc.

Heftier alternatives range from New Zealand rack of lamb with mint jus, garlic mashed potatoes and a broiled tomato to chicken breast Vesuvio, a grilled pork chop with Parmesan risotto and shallot-garlic butter and zuppa di pesce, a mélange of calamari, shrimp, mussels and clams in tomato broth with fettuccine.

Portions are substantial, rendering sides rather unnecessary, but you can add on potatoes in various forms, spinach or "market" vegetables.

The restaurant is kid-friendly, a fact that bodes well in these parts. And while the menu for tots does contain the standards - chicken fingers, buttered noodles and grilled cheese, for example - it also has temptations like a Nutella and fruit-filled crepe and tomato-basil flatbread.

Dessert doesn't stray too far from the norm, but we certainly can't find fault with the creamy creme brulee or light, airy tiramisu we encountered.

The larger-than-average wine list features many international labels; a trio of any served by the glass can be turned into a flight. Brunch, including made-to-order crepes, is served on Sundays. At $9, the all-you-can-eat extravaganza is quite the steal.

As for service, it's as approachable and attentive as can be. You'll be left wanting for nothing - except, perhaps, the desire to return soon.

<p class="factboxheadblack">Sansaveria</p>

<p class="News">778 W. Bartlett Road, Bartlett, (630) 855-3374, <a href="http://www.sansaveria.com" target="new">www.sansaveria.com</a></p>

<p class="News"><b>Cuisine:</b> Italian, French and American-tinged steakhouse and creperie</p>

<p class="News"><b>Setting:</b> Quaint, comfortable fine dining</p>

<p class="News"><b>Entrees:</b> $9 to $36</p>

<p class="News"><b>Hours:</b> 4 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, 4 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 9:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday</p>