Canoeing, snorkeling with manatees make for great Fla. vacation

Disney World? Forget about it. Busch Gardens? I think I'll take a pass.

While those are mega-popular destination spots for millions of people traveling to Florida, I opted for something completely different and had something unique to brag about back home.

How many people do you know who've had a chance to canoe in the Everglades or swim with the manatees? Now, that's something likely to impress your co-workers and friends. Plus we didn't have to drop a small fortune in amusement park admission fees and parking.

I have to admit I had my doubts when my wife first mentioned the idea of driving three hours to the Everglades and canoeing. Visions of hungry alligators snapping off our oars and anacondas hanging from trees waiting to put the squeeze on us flashed through my mind. But I was soon assured that it would be safe, and we would have our own personal tour guide leading the way.

Mary McWay, a daughter of a family friend, works for North Carolina Outward Bound and has spent the last two winters guiding trips in the Ten Thousand Islands region that borders the northern edge of the Everglades.

McWay, who usually guides high school and college-age students on trips lasting anywhere from four to five days to two or more weeks, graciously agreed to spend part of her day off canoeing with our small band of out-of-shape middle-aged tourists and two grandmas.

The Ten Thousand Island Wildlife Refuge, about 20 miles southeast of Naples, Fla., on the state's southwest coast, was nothing like I imagined. The 35,000-acre refuge is part of the largest mangrove forest in North America and is home to a variety of native wildlife from 200 species of fish to 189 species of birds. Animals found in the area include raccoons, river otters, dolphins and endangered manatees and sea turtles. Yes, there are alligators, but McWay assured us they usually prefer fresher water to the brackish Black Water River we would be navigating. Despite seeing road signs warning about panther crossings, she also said the big cats were extremely rare and seldom seen.

As we put out our canoes on a sunny 67-degree afternoon, McWay said we would be heading to a bird rookery not too far away. The water, which was only several feet deep in some places, had nary a ripple and was in stark contrast to the previous day when there were strong winds and white caps, McWay said.

Before long, we were treated to the sights of Great Blue herons, slender egrets, ospreys, storks and turkey vultures perched in the thick, tangled mangroves and feeding along the water's edge. McWay noted that for every bird we saw, there were 10 times that number 100 years ago.

The smooth waters and light wind made for easy paddling as we watched jumping fish and diving pelicans along the way. Chicago's cold and snow were a distant memory as we enjoyed the warmth and sun.

Visitors to the Ten Thousand Island Wildlife Refuge can rent canoes at nearby Collier-Seminole State Park. Between December and March, there are guided canoe trips offered four days a week.

The second half of our Florida adventure involved traveling to Homosassa Springs about 70 miles northwest of Tampa.

Swimming with the manatees was something my wife and her sisters have wanted to do for a long time, and they finally got their chance.

The gentle, lumbering manatee, sometimes called a sea cow, likes to hang out in warmer waters and marshy coastal areas. During the winter months, manatees migrate to warmer spring-fed waters, such as Homosassa and Crystal rivers that have areas where the year-round water temperature is 72 degrees.

We booked reservations with Capt. Mike's Sunshine River Tours, which provides a three-hour boat tour, wet suit, mask and snorkel.

Before even leaving the dock, snorkelers must view an informational video about manatees, their struggle to adapt to a changing habitat and how to interact with these docile creatures.

Manatees average 10 feet in length and weigh from 800 to 1,200 pounds. They spend six to eight hours a day feeding on various aquatic plants and grasses. Being mammals, manatees surface for air every three to five minutes, but can stay submerged for up to 20 minutes.

John Stark, a tour worker, emphasized what he called manatee manners such as not interfering with the manatees and being overly aggressive with them. While petting the creatures was encouraged, snorkelers were strictly warned not to dive down to see manatees or chase after them.

"They're real gentle animals," Stark said. "They're not going to roll you over or bite you."

After our manatee indoctrination, we boarded the passenger tour boat with about a dozen other people, most of whom were outfitted in wetsuits and gear.

Capt. Mike Gray headed the boat a few miles up river to the warmer springs. While Gray assured us that he had never been on a trip that didn't encounter manatees, there was always that remote possibility.

"This is wildlife, not an amusement park," Gray said. "I can't push a button and up pops up a manatee playing a banjo."

Finally, we arrived at an area cordoned off by buoys, which Gray told us were "safe areas" for the manatees. To ensure snorkelers didn't get carried away, volunteers in kayaks monitored the waters.

Looking out into the cove, we could spot the backs of several manatees in the distance. It took a few minutes to acclimate to the water, which seemed a little cool, and to find a breathing rhythm with the snorkeling gear. The water was a bit cloudy and I wondered as I paddled along if I would be able to even spot a manatee.

It was just a few minutes when I heard my wife, Jane, let out a yelp of surprise as she unexpectedly got bumped by a passing manatee.

Soon enough I saw a manatee myself only a few feet away. My sister-in-law sidled up next to the manatee and stroked its side. Like an oversized puppy, the manatee rolled over wanting its belly scratched, too. I paddled over to get a closer look. The manatee showed old scars on its back from a close encounter with a boat. I stroked its side, which looked like the leathery skin of an elephant but was slimy with green algae.

After a few moments, the manatee slowly swam away and was lost in the cloudy waters.

I had a few other encounters during the next hour and a half, but nothing like the manatee moment my sister-in-law Barb enjoyed as one of the friendly creatures came right up to her mask and gave her a hug with its short front fins. It's known as a "manatee kiss."

Those are the kind of spontaneous moments in nature all the money in the Magic Kingdom can't buy.

If you go Ten Thousand Island Wildlife Refuge Where: Collier-Seminole State Park, Naples, Fla.Misc.: Canoes can be rented for $25 a day or $5 an hour. Between December and March, there are guided canoe trips available for ages 6 and older on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays. There are even moonlight guided canoe trips available. Information: (239) 394-3397 or floridastateparks.orgManatee swim toursWho: Capt. Mike's Sunshine River ToursWhen: Three-hour tours at 6 and 9 a.m. November to MarchWhere: Homosassa, Fla., about 70 miles northwest of TampaCost: Winter price: $45, $30 for boat ride; open seven days a week Information: (352) 628-3450 or sunshinerivertours.comFalse16001200A volunteer keeps a watchful eye on snorklers searching for manatees.Dave Brencic | Daily HeraldFalse