Redd Herring puts unique spin on comfort food
Quiet downtown Clarendon Hills has charm, and new restaurant Redd Herring — a comfort food-driven American eatery located steps away from the Metra station — fits right in.
Exposed brick walls and a copper-topped bar give way to a menu that's familiar, contemporary and priced for frequent dining. The result? An onslaught of families with kids who'd rather dine out than take the time to cook what they already know they like at home.
That's not to suggest what's offered at Redd Herring is boring: It's anything but. You can thank socca chef-owner Roger Herring — along with David Gollan (ex-Girl & the Goat, Spiaggia) — for that.
Lined with paintings and adorned in chocolate-y banquettes, it's the kind of place a suburbanite could hang out at, and hang out at often.
Want to watch a game? Catch it on the big screen. Craving a pizzette? Get one — a popular carry-over from socca — in house.
We started with the “sassage fest,” a manly flatbread topped with sweet butternut squash, fennel-scented sausage, just-bitter-enough Brussels sprouts and nutty Parmigiano-Reggiano. The offerings change with the seasons, but whatever the version — a classic with red sauce, mozzarella and basil or the Caesar-soused Alpine, garnished with caramelized onions, roasted tomato, prosciutto and Asiago — count on it being easy to please. We found another recipe for success in the tender Allen Brothers steak Diane bites, nubs of perfectly pink beef tenderloin hit up with pungent, creamy blue cheese and thyme-accented Cabernet sauce.
So it goes. Well-liked dishes dot the menu, be it a black tiger shrimp cocktail, seared ahi with cucumber-radish salad or chili boosted by Two Brothers' ale. Mussels with fennel sofrito steeped in Pabst have mass appeal, too.
Accordingly, entrees never deviate too far from the norm, though the kitchen adds fresh, original touches. Take, for example, the deliciously tender, if ubiquitous, short ribs with sweet, earthy apple-celery root purée and braised carrots. Hearty and rooted in the familiar, it's enlivened just enough to feel date-appropriate. Alternatives range from pasta to Lake Superior whitefish, plated with ratatouille and caper-based pesto.
We resisted in favor of the simple, beefy, three-napkin prime burger, which is topped with melty onions, shreds of romaine, roasted tomato, applewood-smoked bacon and a drape of cheddar. Enjoy it — like we did — while the kids tackle a Niman Ranch hot dog, free-range chicken bites or buttered noodles, delivered by chummy servers who know their stuff (and audience).
Sweets aren't forgotten. A nod to the nearby Hinsdale Central High School football team, there was “Redd Devils” food cake on our visit. Get it if you must, or wait for the jolting, cloudlike cotton candy (a mock-market-priced freebie at meal's end), which is novel and irresistible. Although we hardly needed it given the generous portions, the lemony, light, meringue-crowned cheesecake was an ideal closer on the night we dined.
Count on Redd Herring to be not just a valuable mealtime addition to the area, though: It's also a good option for those wanting an affordable glass of wine or a brew. But do plan ahead and make a reservation because it fills up quickly — especially early on, when the locals descend.
<b>Redd Herring</b>
31 S. Prospect Ave., Clarendon Hills, (630) 908-7295, <a href="http://www.redd-herring.com" target="_blank">redd-herring.com</a>
<b>Cuisine: </b>American
<b>Setting: </b>Casually upscale neighborhood haunt
<b>Entrees: </b>$13 to $23
<b>Hours: </b>5 to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 5 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday