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Massive sides, stellar steaks make Gibsons a Mecca for meat lovers

Upon learning Gibsons Bar & Steakhouse was opening its third locale in my neck of the woods, I could hardly contain my excitement - I'm an unabashed, meat-eating Midwestern girl. Plus, the influx of chains in the Oak Brook/Lombard area, to say the least, leaves me uninspired.

Upon entering the hopping space - a veritable copycat of its predecessors, with loads of wood trim - the word "recession" seems to hold little meaning.

Depending on the weather, you'd be wise to ask for a seat on the patio, where a large, cascading waterfall transports you away from the office complex-centered location. There's an outdoor bar, which churns out the same beloved, icy-cold martinis the place is known for. (Get one, but probably not two, unless someone else is driving.)

Alternatively, you may grab a seat in the more intimate back room, which overlooks the umbrella-shaded space. Meanwhile, the large main dining room, a much more boisterous place, is ideal for large groups and those looking to be part of the action.

Appetizers are limited, though you need look no further than the shrimp cocktail. A steakhouse staple, this is a memorable rendition with five perfectly plump, extraordinarily large crustaceans. They arrive on a bed of ice with nasal-clearing, grated horseradish-topped cocktail sauce and plenty of lemons for spurting. At $18.75, this is a starter meant to be shared; ditto the a la carte sides and oversize desserts.

However, you may also begin with a spicy lobster cocktail, citrus-cured salmon, oysters or sesame-seared tuna.

Entrees come with a house salad or soup, so it's best to skip these menu options or risk overload. However, if you've come expressly to indulge in the "lighter" side of things, there's a very good wedge topped with bacon, tomato and blue cheese, a chopped salad and a lobster Cobb. You can snag chicken noodle soup if you're in the mood, too.

Mind you, our house salad - topped with blue cheese crumbles - and the seriously rich, salty lobster bisque served us just fine.

Let it be said that dining here is an investment. If you're looking to curb costs, check out the curiously named "local fare" section, which includes a very memorable London Broil with giardiniera - it informs how I serve flank steak at home to this day. Here you'll also find spit-roasted chicken, a Berkshire pork chop with applesauce and a burger on a pretzel roll.

The reason you come, though - or at least the reason you should come - is for the aged, Prime beef. It - along with the colossal lobster tail - is presented raw tableside, a shtick that, unless you're jaded or a vegetarian, never gets old.

I went with the indulgent petite Australian lobster tail with turf (a not-so-petite-seeming, seven-ounce filet). I got my meat pepper-crusted, and the dish arrived with a large bowl of clarified butter and béarnaise.

Equally delish is the signature W.R.'s Chicago cut, a wonderfully marbled, bone-in rib-eye that's loaded with flavor. From several types and sizes of sirloin to porterhouse and T-bone, the basics are covered. There's also USDA Prime rib, served with horseradish cream and a popover; Alaskan king crab legs; planked whitefish; and grilled, organic Irish salmon with port wine glaze and roasted vegetables.

Among sides, standouts include the double baked potato and the creamed spinach, the latter a reasonable portion in comparison.

No one in their right mind will have room for dessert, but they are quite the sight if you've managed. Carrot cake, for example, features layer after layer slathered with cream cheese frosting; it arrives speared with a steak knife for divvying up. We settled on something a bit more sensible: the ice cream sundae, drizzled with gooey hot fudge.

I've eaten at Gibson's many times; most always, the service is exceptional. The same was true here, provided you don't mind a bit of sass. It's a Chicago-style steakhouse, after all.

The wine list is certainly worth perusing, but most people rock the martinis. They're big, cold and great with blue-cheese stuffed olives.

Petite steak/ lobster surf and turf gives diners a taste of two of Gibsons' classics. Bev Horne | Staff Photographer

<p class="factboxheadblack">Gibsons Bar & Steakhouse</p>

<p class="News">2105 S. Spring Road, Oak Brook, (630) 954-0000, <a href="http://www.gibsonssteakhouse.com" target="new">www.gibsonssteakhouse.com</a></p>

<p class="News"><b>Cuisine:</b> Steak and seafood</p>

<p class="News"><b>Setting:</b> Masculine and clubby through and through</p>

<p class="News"><b>Hours:</b> 11 a.m. to midnight Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday</p>

<p class="News"><b>Entrees:</b> $12-$139.95</p>

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