Two vibrant ways to enjoy seasonal citrus

The bright pops of color and fresh, tangy sweetness of citrus are just what we need during the dark days of winter. I create entire classes around citrus fruit in the winter for kids and adults. I don’t make the recipes easy for kids or go with simple foods and flavors they’re likely to enjoy. Though I see bags of easy-peel mandarins everywhere, I like to broaden horizons and palates with something new. Recently, that meant citrus-ricotta toast with honey and pistachios and a gorgeous drop-dead upside-down cake, courtesy of Melissa Clark of the New York Times.

Through a cognitive technique known as bridging, I have successfully gotten even picky eaters to try more adventurous foods. Bridging involves starting with something familiar and beloved, like cheese quesadillas. Then, you bridge to something new and create something like butternut squash and black bean quesadillas. In this case, we relied on cake and toast, but with a twist and decidedly sophisticated flavors. Still, they are quick and simple to make.

Even the smallest children could get involved chopping nuts, crushing cardamom pods, mixing batter and spreading ricotta. I let them use rolling pins for the first two tasks, which adds to the appeal and is safer than knives. Putting them in sealed plastic bags first keeps errant nuts and shells from ricocheting all over the kitchen. Most of them can also supreme an orange, a skill that eludes many adults. (If you are one of those, follow the instructions in the recipe to make it less confounding.)

Feel free to use any citrus in these recipes based on what is available. Blood oranges and Cara Cara oranges bring deep ruby and pinky-orange color, which delights most kids who assume all oranges are orange.

Citrus-Ricotta Toast with Honey and Pistachios

2 cups water

1 teaspoon fresh herbs, left on stem (thyme, rosemary, marjoram)

1/4 cup honey

1 cup prepared fresh ricotta

6-8 slices assorted citrus (varied sizes and colors)

2 slices fresh sourdough bread

Extra-virgin olive oil, for spreading

1 tablespoon pistachios, chopped

Flaky salt

Add herbs to water over medium heat and bring to a simmer. Partially cover and reduce the liquid by half. Strain out the herbs and add honey. Warm the mixture over low heat until well combined. Stir constantly, and don't heat above 110 degrees. Let cool.

Place ricotta in a deep bowl and mix with hand mixer or immersion blender until smooth and aerated, about 2 minutes. Use slotted spoon to remove herbs and add 1 tablespoon of cooled honey. Continue whipping for another minute.

Supreme oranges by cutting a thin "cheek" from top and bottom of the fruit. Cut away peel and pith. Slice along membranes, releasing segments.

Heat a dry cast iron grill pan on high until very hot. Spread both sides of bread with olive oil and grill, pressing down lightly, about 45 seconds per side.

Spread ricotta mixture on warm toast, layer on sliced citrus, drizzle with infused honey, sprinkle with pistachios.

Serves 2

Leslie Meredith

BLOOD ORANGE UPSIDEDOWN CAKE

Serves 8

2 sticks plus 3 tablespoons unsalted butter at room temperature

2/3 cup light brown sugar

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

2 medium-sized blood oranges

1 cup fine cornmeal

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

11/2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt

1 cup granulated sugar

4 large eggs, at room temperature

1/3 cup sour cream

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

Heat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 9-inch round cake pan.

In a small saucepan over medium heat, melt 3 tablespoons butter. Add the brown sugar and lemon juice; stir until sugar melts, about three minutes. Scrape mixture into bottom of prepared pan.

Grate 1/2 teaspoon zest from one of the oranges, then slice off the tops and bottoms of both oranges. Place oranges on a clean, flat surface, and slice away the rind and pith, top to bottom, following the curve of the fruit. Slice each orange crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick wheels; discard any seeds. Arrange orange wheels on top of brown sugar mixture in a single, tight layer.

In a large bowl, whisk together orange zest, cornmeal, flour, baking powder and salt. In a separate bowl, cream together remaining 2 sticks butter with granulated sugar. Beat in eggs, one a time, then beat in sour cream and vanilla. Fold in the dry mixture by hand.

Scrape batter into pan over oranges. Transfer to oven and bake until cake is golden brown and a toothpick inserted in the center emerges clean, 40 to 50 minutes. Cool cake in pan 10 minutes, then run a knife along the pan’s edges to loosen it; invert onto a platter and cool completely before serving.

Serves 8

Melissa Clark, New York Times