Fall gardening checklist for beds, lawns and containers

I am always looking for ways to be more efficient with my gardening at home. I don’t mulch established planting beds in my garden and I prefer a more natural look. This natural aesthetic does not appeal to everyone.

I leave perennials up for winter interest and leave a light layer of leaves in the beds to provide some winter protection. Reduce the depth of this layer of leaves once it gets deeper than 3 to 4 inches.

Any perennial plants you installed this year — especially those installed in late summer or fall — should be mulched for the winter. The freeze-and-thaw cycles in spring can push newly planted perennials out of the ground.

Continue cutting your grass throughout the fall as needed, taking care to stay off the lawn when there is heavy frost in the morning. Cold weather will eventually stop grass growth. Make your last cut of the year at a lower height of 2 inches. I like to gradually reduce the height of my mower from 3½ inches during the growing season through October. The leaves are ground up better with the mower set at 2 to 2½ inches. I avoid raking leaves whenever possible, and I leave the ground-up leaves on my lawn.

Terra cotta containers are best stored inside for winter. When plants in these containers are finished for the year, dump out the growing medium and store the pots in a garage or shed so they are out of the rain. These containers absorb water, and the freeze-and-thaw cycles of winter can crack them if they are left outside. If you need to leave them outside over winter, elevate them above the ground, store upside down and cover with a tarp to keep the pots as dry as possible.

Any soilless mix from window boxes or containers can be discarded, mixed in a compost pile, blended into a garden bed or kept aside for one more year. If the growing medium is used for a second year, mix equal parts of the old mix with fresh soilless mix next year. Avoid reusing medium in containers that have had any problems with disease.

Certain bulbs such as daffodils, hyacinths, tulips and crocuses are excellent for forcing in pots in the greenhouse or home. They need to be chilled for six to 10 weeks at 40 degrees Fahrenheit or below to fulfill the requirements of a dormant period. Plant them in pots in the fall and leave them in a cold place before bringing them inside for forcing. Place the pots in a cold frame outside, plunge the pots into the ground and mulch. Do not allow the pots to dry out. When they are brought inside, gradually acclimate them to indoor conditions, keeping them at 50 to 60 degrees for a few days.

• Tim Johnson is director of horticulture at Chicago Botanic Garden, chicagobotanic.org.