Solution to basement's dirty stucco walls
Q. We have a finished basement with stucco walls. We don't like the appearance or how dirty they get. Is there a somewhat simple way to replace them? If not, can you recommend a way to clean them? They are white but are dirty from the basement.
Via e-mail
A. I assume you mean the stucco is on the foundation walls. If it is real stucco (as opposed to simulated stucco panels), removing it would be almost impossible to do at any reasonable cost. Can you clean the stucco and have a drywall contractor or mason apply a joint compound over it to smooth the walls and paint them? Smooth surfaces collect less dust than rough surfaces and are easier to clean.
If the stucco is artificial, can the panels be removed? But what will you do once the imitation stucco is removed? You'll end up with the masonry foundation walls, and, if they are concrete blocks, you should not paint them, as the paint will either peel (if there is outside moisture penetration) or water will build up inside the cores if it is a waterproofing coating. To keep the basement cleaner, consider an electronic filter installed in the return plenum of a warm-air system or, if you have hydronic heat (hot-water baseboard), a stand-alone filter that collects floating dust particles.
Q. In one of your columns in the Newark Star-Ledger, you seemed to indicate a preference for "engineered flooring" versus laminates (like Pergo). Could you elaborate a bit? We are thinking of putting a laminate floor in a family-room addition. We have an active 2-year-old boy and a dog and a cat. My dad has a Bruce laminate floor in his kitchen, and he and my stepmother like it a lot. The builder rep that we know from church says he has a laminate floor, and it has held up well to his children's traffic. The laminates seem to be very sturdy and very resistant to scratching. I'm not sure how they're made. Are they epoxy-filled or something? I understand that if you do manage to really damage a laminate floor that the damaged section has to be cut out and replaced.
Via e-mail
A. Laminate floors are very resistant to damage, but if damage happens, you are out of luck. Wood laminates such as Pergo are very popular but cannot be refinished if they're damaged, as the laminate is either very thin or only photographed on a wood base. Engineered flooring is made of thin, real wood, adhered to a wood core. They come in two types: a floating floor that is laid over a foam pad or individual pieces that are either glued or nailed to the subfloor, which can be refinished to a certain extent. There are a number of engineered floors on the market. Your best bet is to go to a flooring store and take a look at what they have, and compare with laminate floors.
Q. Our house was built 105 years ago. We have had this leak in the master-bedroom ceiling for over six years, and we have spent over $20,000 on repairs. The leak is on all three sides of the fireplace at the ceiling. Above the ceiling is a chimney that is made of large marble blocks. We have had all the slate removed from the gutter to the apex of the roof. The area of slate removal extended 3 feet past both sides of the chimney. A new ice-and-snow barrier was put down before the slates were reinstalled, along with replacement of any damaged slates. We also had the copper cricket replaced and made larger along with new, higher flashing. The chimney has a copper cap that was re-cemented. We cannot close off the chimney because the heating system uses one of the flues. Despite all this, the leak persists. We have now been advised to direct our efforts toward repointing the chimney and coating it with a sealer. This will be another $10,000, which out of desperation, we are willing to spend if there is a significant chance it will help. Needless to say, we are at our wits end. Can you please offer advice and suggestions? We will appreciate anything you can do to finally get this problem solved.
Newark, N.J.
A. If the flashing at the base of the chimney was done correctly when the repairs were made, it sounds as if the problem is with the marble blocks. Have them repointed, and have the entire chimney sealed with a clear sealer. Be sure that the product you use is siloxane-based. It will allow the marble blocks to breathe and dry up, but seal out the penetration of water. I am surprised at the enormous cost you have paid so far and at the price you have been quoted; have you received several estimates? You should.
Q. Some time ago, you gave a writer a suggestion for a sluggish drain. I had clipped the article, since I am experiencing the same issue, but have misplaced it. Can you please provide me with the name of the product as well as where I can possibly find it?
Via e-mail
A. The product is Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda. The directions for sluggish drains are on one of the side panels. You should be able to find Super Washing Soda in the laundry-detergent section of your supermarket. I have used Super Washing Soda for years to keep all drains flowing smoothly. Do not use it on clogged drains; it will turn into a cement-like material. Be aware that Super Washing Soda will not dissolve hair; if hair is what is making drains sluggish, you'll have to remove it by whatever means you can think of (I use a thin piece of wire with a hook on the working end, and sometimes I have to use needle-nose plyers.)
Q. I am writing in reference to replacing my home's 22 windows. Our home is 17 years old, and during the years we have added two additions; an apartment for my mother-in-law and another one over the garage. We have a very large family: six children, two of us and Nana. We have had a problem with moisture in the main part of the house since we take eight showers a day plus cooking, etc. Our only bathroom is at the top of the front-door stairs and the bedrooms surround it. We added outside venting, run a dehumidifier and try to open the windows daily, weather permitting. Well, our window frames are moldy.
We sanded them, bleached them, treated them, refinished and sealed them, but the mold keeps coming back. We don't want to replace windows and have the same thing happen. I wrote to Andersen asking if they would custom-make a double-hung, wood window with vinyl casing around both sides. They told me they couldn't; only the outside of the frame is vinyl. They referred me to a new window company they took over -- Skyline, which are all-vinyl windows. I didn't want to go all-vinyl and wanted to stay wood with a vinyl covering for ease of cleaning and maintenance.
Do you have any suggestions? Do you recommend all-vinyl windows, or do I stay away from them? Do you recommend Skyline windows, or are they an unknown entity?
Milton, Vt.
A. Sorry, I do not know anything about Skyline windows. However, if Andersen has acquired the company and is recommending these windows, they must be of good quality. There are other high-quality, all-vinyl windows. Just be sure that you deal with a time-tested, reputable firm. (Some firms selling windows do not stay around long). You may want to look into the fiberglass windows that Marvin makes, where you have a choice of fiberglass outside and wood inside, or all fiberglass.
The windows may also get moldy since you have such a high indoor relative humidity (RH), but they won't rot. Dehumidifiers are not too effective in winter. You may also want to look into one or more wall-type air-to-air heat exchangers to deal with the excessive RH; that will be less expensive than a whole-house air-to-air heat exchanger, but the latter will do a more effective job.
Q. Is there anything I can do to prevent the buildup of soot and residue at the bottom of my gas hot-water heater and gas furnace? The chimney pipes that feed them both keep depositing the stuff at the bottom, and I just keep vacuuming it up. Both units are over 20 years old. Nothing major to replace aside from a couple of thermocouple pilot starters and circulating pump on the furnace. Should I even be concerned about the buildup of residue, or can I prevent this from occurring?
Via e-mail
A. You should have a competent gas technician check your system every year, as recommended by the AGA (American Gas Association). It sounds as if there is need for adjustment of the air mixture
© 2007, United Feature Syndicate, Inc.