Flooding poses questions about flooring options
Q. We recently had a couple of inches of water in our basement, due to the record flooding in the Midwest (the first time in the 18 years we have lived in our house). We had to dispose of both the carpet and the pad. One carpet company recommended, in the event of future flooding, that we lay carpet only (without pad) until we told them that in about one-third of our basement there is a black, tarry adhesive that was used to secure a wood tile floor (which we removed about 10 years ago).
Due to the presence of the adhesive, they are concerned that carpet glue and this adhesive may cause some type of chemical reaction. It was a mess removing the wet pad, especially in the area of the adhesive where we literally had to scrape it off. The carpet company suggested laying Visqueen plastic sheeting over the adhesive and then laying pad and carpet again. I also am thinking about other more waterproof options -- paint or tile the concrete and use area rugs -- but am concerned about the fact that this adhesive may limit are options. Any suggestions on the adhesive problem and covering basement floors in general?
Barrington, Ill.
A. Don't use Visqueen. Your best solution is to scrape off as much of the remaining solvent-based adhesive (by now there must be very little left to remove), and flash the remnants with Ardex Feather Finish, Trowel-Grade, Self-Drying, Cement-Based Finishing Underlayment. Then you have choices: You can lay ceramic or vinyl tiles or have synthetic carpeting applied directly (no pad) with one of the premium adhesives available today. If you experience another flood, remove as much water as you can with a Wet/Dry Vac and complete the drying process with a dehumidifier and fans.
Q. I am proposing to change my garage into a living room. The concrete slab will remain and will be covered by Visqueen membrane (clear plastic cover). Then a 2-by-4-inch piece of lumber will be placed at every 16-inches to act as joists. Two-inch rigid insulation will be placed between the joists then #190;-inch plywood sheeting will cover the floor with hardwood floor finish. My concern is if any moisture will cause mildew? Presently, the garage floor is dry.
My other question is, the living room, dining room, kitchen and the foyer (approximately 550 square feet) is a concrete slab placed on fill. Needless to say, the contractor did a lousy job in compaction, and now I have about a 2-inch settlement in the center. I know that I can have the floor leveled with lightweight concrete or self-leveling concrete, my concern is that adding more weight on top may not be the best solution.
I was thinking more of having holes drilled in the concrete slab and pumping some material under pressure that would lift the slab. I saw this done on the "This Old House," however they did this on a small porch area outside the house.
Va e-mail
A. Unless the space between the garage floor and the door to the house restricts the use of wider joists -- and you are planning on using 2-by-4-inch lumber because it will be resting on the concrete floor -- they are not appropriate as joists. If you have enough space, why not install 2-inch thick extruded polystyrene (XPS) rigid insulation directly over the plastic vapor retarder, setting the joists on top (2 by 4s will be fine if they are resting on the XPS)? This will provide uninterrupted insulation of the floor. This setup should be OK, but it is possible that moisture will collect under the plastic.
The concrete may feel dry now because any moisture from the soil may evaporate, but once a plastic sheet is put over, this may no longer be possible. Garage slabs are not always poured over several inches of crushed stones covered with a plastic vapor retarder.
Mudjacking is an option. But you may have trouble finding someone locally who will do a small residential job, which may not be necessary. The best way to go is to have a structural engineer test the substrate and advise on the best method to level the floor. If the substrate has stabilized and can take the additional weight, it may be possible to simply cap what is already there. Mudjacking also adds weight and pressure to an unstable substrate and may not solve your problem permanently.
Q. Are tankless water heaters a good investment? My plumber tells me that they cost more in gas to heat than a water tank. I live alone so there is not much demand for hot water.
Via e-mail
A. I hope you misunderstood your plumber because you have it turned around. On-demand, tankless water heaters only use gas when hot water is needed, whereas storage water heaters use gas to maintain the tank's temperature whether hot water is drawn or not.
Q. In 1998 we had a new garage built with a concrete floor. The floor, which was sealed initially, had a nice smooth finish. That finish has worn away with time and salt from the cars in the winter, especially in the areas where the cars park. A few hairline cracks have also developed over time, and various contractors have said that they are a result of the Vermont winters -- harmless and to be expected. I would like to refinish the floor before the upcoming winter and am wondering what you would recommend for the process to clean the floor and the product to apply.
Via e-mail
A. The concrete floor will have to be cleaned thoroughly by sprinkling TSP crystals on it, over which hot water is also sprinkled. Wait 30 minutes and scrub with a stiff bristle brush. Rinse well and let dry.
You can repair the damaged areas with a product like Top'N Bond or Thorocrete Concrete Patch, but if you intend to cover the entire slab with it, you have an enormous job ahead of you. Top'N Bond is not recommended for application to smooth surfaces, but on damaged areas only. Thorocrete can be used for resurfacing, but it is questionable whether it is advisable to use for such a large area as a garage floor.
Q. I was wondering if you could recommend a good stainless-steel cleaner for my kitchen appliances. I've tried the white-paste stuff, which is extremely messy. I want something that isn't like the paste and won't leave streaks. Any ideas? -- via e-mail
A. Try a solution of baking soda and water. Rinse and polish dry with paper towel or soft cloth. Or try cleaning the appliances with a cloth dipped in white vinegar or in ammonia. You can also dampen the appliances and sprinkle a little baking soda on a sponge, rubbing gently. Rinse well. Follow the cleaning with a dry paper towel.
#169; 2007, United Feature Syndicate, Inc.