Pumpkin beers? Some brews tricks, others real treats

When I browse the wine aisles I'm attracted to bottles with pretty or interesting labels. My shopping strategy applies to beer as well, but that strategy has obvious flaws. As a staff taste test of the season's pumpkin beers showed, an eye-catching label does not guarantee something good inside.

The award for best-looking bottle went to Ichabod and the eerie headless horseman on the label from Michigan's New Holland Brewing Co., yet the beer showed up last in the running. One taster declared the ale "ichabad," with others noting plasticlike aroma and soapy flavor.

Lakefront Pumpkin Lager out of Milwaukee -- the only lager in the tasting and, according to its Web site, the only pumpkin lager, period -- won Best of Tasting. Lagers ferment longer than ales, giving Lakefront's brew time to develop deep, rich flavors that won the judges over. The cinnamon, clove and nutmeg come through without over-powering or being overpowered by hops.

Coming in a close second was Imperial Pumking from Southern Tier Brewing Co. in Lakewood, N.Y. The spicy aroma and copper hue support the bold flavor. The label tells the story of Puca, a creature of Celtic folklore, which makes this ale tasty and educational.

America's Original Pumpkin Ale from Buffalo Bill's Brewery in California and Jack's Pumpkin Spice Ale, the seasonal offering from Anheuser-Busch, held spots in the middle of the pack. "Smooth; not as bitter," one taster said of the Buffalo Bill's, yet another docked points for the thin body.

The pumpkin ale from O'Fallon Brewery in O'Fallon, Mo., failed to impress tasters, who called it bland (yet not as offensive as the Ichabod).

When I searched for pumpkin beers the other week, I certainly had an easier time than in the past. Most liquor shops group seasonal beers and I've no doubt you'll run into brands I didn't. I found a nice selection at Binny's. Six packs generally run $7 to $9 while the 22-ounce Pumking goes for about $6.50.

Beer euphoria: Please indulge me while I go on about beer a bit longer.

I recently had the honor of sampling Sam Adams Utopias. I say "honor" because the Boston Beer Co. brewed just 12,000 bottles. I got No. 1,088. Seriously, the porcelain container, designed to resemble a copper brew kettle, is stamped with the number on the bottom.

Utopias is no ordinary beer and should not be treated as such. At $120 for a 24-ounce bottle and with 27 percent alcohol, this is a beverage to be sipped, much like you would bold red wine or an after-dinner port.

The 2007 release of Utopias marks brewer Jim Koch's fifth foray into "extreme beers." In 1994 his Triple Bock set records at 17.5 percent alcohol (aah, fond memories). He followed that up with 2000's Millennium Ale at 21 percent and notched up the alcohol with the 2002 and 2003 Utopias releases.

To achieve the deep color and rich, complex flavors, the beer (a blend of brews) ages in bourbon casks, then moves to sherry and Madeira casks, then brandy and cognac barrels, picking up subtle flavor notes at each stop.

You won't find Utopias as easily as you will Pumking. It's available at select specialty liquor stores, so I recommend calling your favorite shop so see if they can hook you up. If you don't want to pony up for a whole bottle, head to any Morton's The Steakhouse, where Utopias is on the after-dinner drink menu.

Getting crabby: The slow hurricane season means good things for fans of the big-clawed stone crab.

The crabbing season opened earlier this month and commercial fishermen who struggled in 2004 and 2005 are looking forward to a strong year, reports the South Florida Sun-Sentinel.

Fulton's on the River chef Rick DeLeon recently returned to Chicago from the Florida Keys, where he learned how to pull crab traps from the choppy waters and snap the prized claws from the crustaceans. You can watch the action at www.youtube.com; keyword Flight of the Crab.

The stone crab season runs through May, so you have plenty of time to get into Fulton's on the River, 315 N. LaSalle Drive, or your favorite seafood eatery to try a plate.

Or, serve some up at home. Stone crab is cooked just after harvest so the meat doesn't stick to the shell. You'll find it at the seafood counter either fresh or frozen. Figure three claws per person.

For tempting recipes and preparation tips, check out the Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services at www.fl-seafood.com/recipes.

-- Deborah Pankey