Holy Mackerel!: Sleek and sumptuous

When most Sox fans hear the words, "Harry Caray," they're ready to run for the hills. Fortunately, Holy Mackerel! -- first-ever offshoot of the late announcer's namesake steakhouse -- is blessedly free of decorative regalia.

Located in the sleek, new Westin hotel, it welcomes diners with a glass waterfall, a touch that's mimicked in the rippled glass partitions between booths. The funky black-and-white fishing photography adorning the walls, the cream leather chairs, the navy banquettes and the dark wood details exude a subtle maritime vibe.

Open for three meals daily, the restaurant's top-tier prices come a bit more down to earth during the daylight hours. Still, this is not an inexpensive place to dine.

The seafood-centric menu starts with classics such as littleneck clams steamed in white wine and garlic-herb butter and roasted artichoke and spinach dip. Although it's steep at $14.95, the colossal shrimp cocktail is a hands-down winner with massively meaty crustaceans and faintly sweet cocktail sauce pumped up with grated horseradish. We also enjoyed the spice-battered popcorn shrimp scattered with scallions and served with sweet, creamy coconut sauce, as well as the smoked salmon bruschetta that's garnished with basil-infused oil.

If oysters are your thing, check out the half-dozen selections (served in portions of six). Since the menu is printed daily and offerings depend on what's in season, you might find the likes of Imperial Eagle, Sunset Beach or Fishers Island. Samplers of one or two of each selection are available for those who want to mix and match.

Soups are limited to New England-style clam chowder and sweet potato-corn chowder -- both of which sound like ideal precursors to entrees of fresh fish.

Standard salads -- including a beefsteak tomato with Vidalia onions and gorgonzola, a wedge and a Caesar with garlic croutons -- give way to a seafood Cobb with jumbo lump crab and bay scallops, a niçoise with yellowfin tuna and hard-boiled quail eggs, and bay shrimp Louie with Thousand Island dressing.

Needless to say, there are plenty of fresh catches on hand daily, and preparations range from familiar to global. Wild king salmon, for example, is pan-seared and served with rock shrimp potato hash and raspberry demi-glace, while a yellowfin tuna stir-fry is cloaked in panang curry and served with white rice. Furthering the pan-Asian theme, sake kasu-marinated, lemon-, ginger- and soy-glazed sea bass marries with sticky rice and sweet chili sauce, and sesame-crusted yellowfin is pan-seared rare and served with a nori rice roll and wakame seaweed salad.

We chose the beer-battered fish and chips and found it to be a superior version. The three generous logs of cod were invitingly non-greasy, and the accompanying slaw had a pleasant, vinegary bite.

We were less enamored, however, with the blackened tilapia. It was served atop saffron-scented rice with a bland bay shrimp and tomato "relish" and flavorless roasted red pepper coulis. The worst of it, however, was the blackening itself. It tasted chemical-y and burned and gave off none of the heat we had hoped for.

That being said, the house specialties include cioppino packed with jumbo shrimp, scallops, mussels, clams, swordfish and Alaskan king crab legs in tomato broth; paella; and whole red snapper with sticky rice, stir-fried veggies and sesame-scallion glaze. Or, those who are feeling flush can choose the New England lobster boil with mussels, clams, potatoes and corn on the cob.

There's nothing left to the imagination when it comes to shellfish, and in our experience that's a good thing. Our experience proved the kitchen -- both here and at the adjacent Harry Caray's Italian Steakhouse -- handles it well.

Choose from a rock shrimp shortcake with green onion-cheddar biscuits, peppers, onions, Cajun cream, tomato salsa and sour cream; shrimp de Jonghe; and jumbo lump crab risotto with pistachio-crusted jumbo shrimp and tomato-saffron broth.

Steaks are plentiful, aged and from corn-fed, Midwestern prime beef. Look for cuts like a 16-ounce strip, 23-ounce bone-in rib-eye and 9-ounce filet. Three surf and turf combos bring on shrimp with lemon butter and Alaskan king crab legs or Maine lobster with drawn butter.

Chops and poultry, not surprisingly, aren't a focus, but you will find Harry's touted bone-in chicken Vesuvio with potato wedges and peas.

If you're in need of sides for the a la carte selections, consider trying lobster mashed potatoes, sugar snap peas, wilted baby spinach or green beans with shallot butter.

Dessert is more appealing than at many like-minded spots. The mixed berries and cream were a delightfully simple and fresh way to end a meal, but it was the caramel, crème anglaise and chocolate sauce-zapped banana cream pie we can't live without.

Drink-wise, the focus is on wine with an emphasis on mid-priced whites. A signature cocktail menu twists classics like the Sidecar -- prepared here with Hennessy VSOP, Patron Citronge, fresh sour mix, blood orange bitters and an orange twist. Three types of mojitos and tropical drinks like the Harpoon -- with raspberry puree, cranberry juice and a lime wedge -- are among the other finds.

The lunch menu brings on much of the same with a number of sandwiches thrown into the mix. So, at that time look for a Maine lobster roll with tarragon mayonnaise, blackened catfish with remoulade sauce on a baguette, and a pan-seared tuna burger with sesame oil, ginger, cucumbers and wasabi aioli on a brioche bun.

There are no major surprises on the breakfast menu -- just basics that get a bit gussied up. Look for Nueske's applewood-smoked bacon, Amy's chicken sausage and French toast stuffed with Bailey's cream cheese.

Our server was extremely friendly, which is refreshing (and surprising) in this day and age. But in the end, it was the atmosphere that roped us in more than the food. Without question, Holy Mackerel! will impress business types when deal-sealing, deliver sustenance for hotel patrons and offer a respite for harried shoppers.

Holy Mackerel!

70 Yorktown Center (Westin Lombard) Lombard; (630) 953-3444, www.holymackerelseafood.com

Cuisine: Seafood and steak

Setting: Clean-lined, con-temporary and upscale

Price range: Starters $7.95 to $14.95; soup and salad $2.95 to $18.95; entrees $14.95 to $39.95; desserts $6.95 to $7.95

Hours: 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday to Thursday, 6 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday

Accepts: Major credit cards, reservations

Also: Private parties for up to 500