Soul: Dining for those who fixate on food

For anyone who's ever been to Chicago upscale dining spots Marche, Opera or Gioco, you will be very familiar with their grand open spaces, tucked-away private rooms, dramatic velvet, bright colors and of course, the amazing food and excellent, excellent wine selection. Well Clarendon Hills just got its first taste of restaurateur Howard Davis' brand, and though the grand-opening was pushed back several times, Soul has proven that good things come to those who meticulously fixate on great dining.

The scene

A "modern industrial art decor" is how the place describes itself, but if you wander in without preconceived notions, you might as well think unobtrusive kitsch, if such a thing exists. A good-sized patio with a waist-level brick fence is the prelude to a long granite bar and three different dining areas: the main room, the "Jungle Room" and the Mezzanine. The "Private Cabins" are very much worth requesting if you're here with a date. Booths sectioned off with velvet curtains provide semi-seclusion behind the main bar. And while on the topic of bars - cocktails, microbrews, organic wine and juices are all courtesy of the bar too.

The food

The originality of the food's concept comes in its execution: a combination of classy southern comfort without the greasy excess - or "regional American," as they call it here, with the tiny word 'fine' in front of it, which is just fine.

Head chef Karen Nicolas is in full view of the main dining room, which is set up in such a way that makes her look like she's on stage, where she can be heard half-requesting/half-demanding ingredients, an artist at work.

We start off with the Chesapeake Bay crab cakes, which boast small pieces of fresh orange, fresh watercress and avocado green goddess (a dollop of thick, dark and creamy green sauce to moisten the fried cakes that are light and clean). Young and vibrant wines comprise the menu, and after choosing a 2004 Pagos de Mogar from Spain - it arrived in a little carafe to be poured into the glass - the time had come to set our sights on the main course.

A slightly over-medium-rare Pan roasted Atlantic salmon with a golden skin is surrounded by cold sliced fingerling potatoes and sits on a bed of crisp pea shoot salad and trout caviar. While the pea shoot salad cleanses the palate, the caviar provides a burst of flavor during every tender salmon bite and is simply wonderful.

A Rotisserie chili-rubbed pork rack with braised ham hock, cheddar grits and escarole is a manlier dish, to be sure, but no less abundant in attractiveness. It's centered around a big piece of meat that is cooked to perfection and accompanied with grits riding on the fork, providing a unique-tasting bite. The menu also features plenty of side dishes, such as creamy macaroni and smoked cheddar gratin, boasting an absolutely lovely and sinful crust.

There are daily plates, too, like the braised Colorado lamb shanks with white beans, artichokes and spring garlic broth, or the rabbit, sausage and shellfish jambalaya, with fried okra and aromatic plantation rice. The desert, courtesy of pastry chef Stephanie Prida, is a chocolate souffle with mint ice cream: enough for two and enough to melt your socks off. The souffle is still hot and soft and is so rich, you need the ice cream to cool you down. While it melts in your mouth you can actually taste the crushed mint. Even Haagen Dazs falls short.

The experience

Soul wasn't open long when we stopped in, and there was a slight, unmistakable air of panic on the part of the staff, which was hard at work to make sure all was well with the talkative clientele. The service itself was courteous, even overly so. And regardless of any effort you put forth to avoid having a pricey meal, let it go, because it just won't happen. You may as well give the food and wine its due, because it's well worth the money.

Soul

Location: 1 Walker Ave., Clarendon Hills

Contact: (630) 920-1999 or eatatsoul.com

Cuisine: Regional American

Setting: Upscale modern, with posh velvet curtains and a cool demeanor

Hours: 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday; 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday

Price range: Appetizers: $6-14; Entrees: $16-29; Dessert: $8-12