Absinthe making a comeback

Once banned for its purported hallucinogenic properties, an Old World aperitif is trying to resurface in the modern world of mojitos and cosmos.

Bartenders around the area are mixing up cocktails with classic absinthe, an anise-flavored liquor, that fell victim to controversy and worldwide bans.

In 19th-century Europe, absinthe ascended into popular culture. Soldiers consumed it in the trenches and later the liquor took center stage at cocktail hours hosted by artists such as Vincent van Gogh and Pablo Picasso. After alleged episodes of hallucinations and illicit conduct among Bohemians, absinthe came under fire. The controversy centered around the chemical, thujone, a component of wormwood, said to have caused the hallucinations.

The first country to ban absinthe was Congo in 1898; the U.S. followed suit in 1912; France in 1915.

Later research showed the traditional absinthe did not contain enough thujone to cause mind-altering effects. The U.S. government lifted its ban on absinthe in 2007.

Starting over with altered recipes and production, distillers have made a quiet comeback with their renditions in modern clubs, bars and restaurants.

Café Absinthe in Chicago features several brands, however their best sellers remain Lucid, Absente and Pernod.

"We have been serving Pernod since we opened 14 years ago and recently started serving the legalized Pernod," manager Marielle DiGiacomo says.

"We serve it traditionally with sugar and water, but we can make any cocktail using absinthe. It's a great digestive drink in lieu of a port or other dessert beverages," DiGiacomo adds.

The revitalized absinthe may not contain the potent properties from wormwood that branded this liquor with its notorious status, but you can find the "Green Fairy" at local watering holes and on liquor store shelves. The green elixir starts at $59.99, for a 750-ml bottle at liquor stores. Look for classic distiller Pernod Fils' absinthe, among other brands at Foremost Liquors, Schaumburg, A&A Liquors in Arlington Heights and at Niche Restaurant in Geneva. Find it in Chicago at The Violet Hour, Bella Restaurant and Café Absinthe.