Make Dad's day with manly meats

It's not unusual to hear a kid say that all her dad knows how to cook is steak on the grill. That's because a lot of men really like grilling, and many more really like its end result.

But even the most enthusiastic of grillers may balk at spending eight to 12 hours tending a fire to cook the Holy Grail of the world of meat: a whole barbecued brisket.

For Father's Day, consider giving Dad the gift of this savory dish, but going by way of the oven.

Using this technique, the constant temperature of 275 degrees, which allows the tough connective tissues of the brisket to gently dissolve, results in ultratender meat. Much less attention is needed than with traditional methods.

The classic smoky barbecue flavor is achieved by making a rub for the brisket using Spanish-smoked paprika, which is made from peppers that are slowly dried over an oak-burning fire. Look for this spice in specialty food stores or online from purveyors such as www.Penzeys.com.

Finding a whole brisket may be difficult because they usually are cut into the flat and point ends, which are sold separately at most markets. Ask the butcher for a whole, untrimmed brisket that still has the layer of fat (called the deckle) on one side, which will help keep the meat from drying out during cooking. They usually come vacuum-sealed in plastic.

To further help keep the brisket moist during the lengthy cooking time, a bottle of beer is added, and the roasting pan is tightly covered. When the meat is done, the liquid in the pan can be degreased and reduced and used as a sauce. Or some of it can be added to your favorite barbecue sauce to provide a smoky accent.

But if there is a movement to break out the grill, try these bacon and Gorgonzola-stuffed cheeseburgers with grilled apple slices, which an indulgent treat that require little time and effort.

Sealing the cheese inside the burger ensures most of it won't end up melting into the fire. The pungent, sweet flavor of Gorgonzola perfectly complements the smoky bacon and sweet apples, but shredded cheddar or Gouda would be delicious, as well.

For the most moist and tender burger, use 85 percent lean ground beef. Also, be sure not to overwork the mixture after adding the mustard and Worcestershire sauce, which greatly enhance the savory qualities of the meat.

The sweetness of grilled apple slices balance all the savory flavors of this burger. Use a cooking apple, such as a Rome or Empire, because they soften but still hold their shape on the grill.

Bacon and Gorgonzola-stuffed Burgers with Grilled Apples

1 pound lean ground beef

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce

½ teaspoon salt, plus more to season the apples

½ teaspoon ground black pepper, plus more to season the apples

½ cup crumbled Gorgonzola cheese

4 slices of crispy cooked bacon, crumbled

1 large cooking apple such as a Rome, cored and cut into -inch slices

½ teaspoon canola oil

4 hamburger buns

1 small red onion, thinly sliced

Heat a gas grill to medium-high or prepare a charcoal grill.

In a large bowl, combine the ground beef, mustard, Worcestershire, salt and pepper. Mix thoroughly, but do not overwork. Shape the mixture into eight ½-inch-thick patties. Set aside.

Combine cheese and bacon, then form the mixture into 4 small patties. Set them on top of four of the beef patties, then set the remaining beef patties on top, pressing the edges firmly together to seal. Set aside.

Brush the apple slices with oil and season with salt and pepper.

Grill the burgers until they register 160 degrees on an instant-read thermometer and there is no pink inside, about 4 minutes per side.

Meanwhile, on a cooler part of the grill, cook the apple slices until browned and tender. Toast the buns on the edge of the grill.

Assemble the burgers, top with the grilled apples and red onion.

Serves four.

Smoky, Oven-barbecued Brisket

4 tablespoons mild smoked paprika

2 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons kosher salt

2 tablespoons brown sugar

1 tablespoon mild chili powder

2 teaspoons cumin

One whole brisket (8-10 pounds)

1 bottle (12 ounces) beer

In a small bowl, whisk together smoked paprika, pepper, salt, brown sugar, chili powder and cumin.

Using your hands, rub the brisket with the spice blend, making sure to cover all surfaces. Wrap the brisket tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 12-24 hours.

One hour before cooking remove the brisket from the refrigerator and allow it sit at room temperature, leaving the plastic wrap on.

Heat the oven to 275 degrees. Place the oven rack in the bottom third of the oven.

Unwrap the brisket and place it, fat-side up, in a roasting pan just big enough to hold it. Add the beer to the pan and cover tightly with foil (there should be about half-inch of liquid in the pan, add water if necessary).

Bake for 6-10 hours, basting every 2 hours, or until the internal temperature registers 185 degrees on an instant-read thermometer, and the meat is fork tender. Trim the fat and slice across the grain to serve.

Cook's note: This brisket can be sliced and served in the traditional way piled on slices of soft white bread -- or on its own with or without barbecue sauce. Either way, coleslaw is an indispensable side dish. If you make the brisket a day ahead, wrap it tightly in a couple layers of foil before refrigerating, then reheat the brisket in a 250-degree oven for about an hour, or until it reaches a temperature to your liking.

Serves eight to 10.