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Taste of Chicago -- with a twist

OK, we admit it. It's not like you're going to find monkey brains for sale at the Taste of Chicago. And even the less repulsive, but still exotic, dishes such as fried grasshoppers or starfish aren't going to make an appearance at this Grant Park culinary extravaganza.

This is still the Midwest, after all, and if you're looking for the truly bizarre or exotic, you're better off going to some of Chicago's ethnic neighborhoods to discover those hidden treasures.

But just because the Taste of Chicago is world-famous for its pizza and hotdogs doesn't mean you're stuck with those ho-hum dishes.

Even Mayor Richard M. Daley, who sampled the Taste wares earlier this month at a festival preview, supplemented the hot dog he ate with a kung pao bao from Wow Bao. (It's a dumpling-like creation, if you must know.)

And if the Man on Five is willing to stretch his taste buds outside of the South Side same-old, so should you.

Shark on a stick: OK, they don't really call it that. Instead, it's "skewered shark Veracruz." And, already, we have to take back the smart-aleck South Side remark we just made, because this dish hails from the mayor's old haunts in Bridgeport. The Polo Café, 3322 S. Morgan St. in Chicago, prepares this delicacy. "This is totally a debut" said chef-owner Dave Samber, who confessed the bamboo skewer is mostly decoration. "You eat it with a fork, actually," said Samber. Shark, says Samber, is one of those fish dishes that doesn't have an overwhelming taste, so the Veracruz sauce is what steers the flavor in this baked creation. The sauce is made up of tomatoes, onions, capers and olives. "Sort of a chunkier tomato sauce," said Samber. For the less adventurous, Polo still can satisfy with its Mozzarella cheese bread. "You can smell that garlic (from) O'Hare Airport," laughed Samber.

Coconut rice with sauteed goat: It might not be something you encounter every day, but for Bolat African Cuisine, 3346 N. Clark St. in Chicago, it's still their best-selling dish at the Taste, said chef Beatrice Ade. "The rice is cooked in coconut milk, with some spices, and the goat meat is cooked with spices, tomato sauce, onion and red bell peppers," Ade said. Those spices include curry and thyme. Nothing bland here.

Barbecue buffalo burger: If you HAVE to eat a burger, at least make it a buffalo burger. It's lost some of its exotic cache in recent years, with more restaurants selling this somewhat-off-the-beaten-path dish. But still, some folks approach it warily. That's why Grazie! Ristorante of 1050 E. Oakton St. in Des Plaines offers taste portions for those who aren't quite sure if they want to invest their entire meal in buffalo stock. "We sell more taste portions than full burgers," said Bill Mitchell, a partner in Grazie! "In case they don't like it, they're not stuck paying for the whole thing."

Mitchell described the taste as a little gamier than a regular burger, but nothing as gamy as deer. "It's 90 percent fat free. The best way to eat it is hot off the grill," Mitchell said.

Barbecue twist (vegetarian): So what if you like to try new things but don't want to munch on anything that once swam, mooed, brayed or cock-a-doodle-dood? Soul Vegetarian East, 205 E. 75th St., Chicago, has a vegetarian creation that gets away from the normal veggie staple: soy. The restaurant's barbecue twist is made from setan, which is basically wheat gluten, and slathered with a barbecue sauce. "We're revolutionizing vegan food," said chef Kanon Yah. "This would go good with some greens and mac and cheese." Which, of course, the restaurant also sells. Another option is bhel, a vegetarian Indian dish made by Arya Bhavan, 2508 W. Devon Ave., Chicago. Bhel is made with puffed rice; the Indian spices sev and puri; diced potatoes; onions; cilantro; garlic; and hot and sweet chutney sauces.

Rotating restaurants: This year the Taste is stepping it up a notch with a collaboration between Zagat, the Washburn Culinary Institute and several high-end restaurants throughout the city at the Chef's Table. Each day, culinary students will prepare a different restaurant's signature dish, using the restaurants' own recipes. Pizza and hot dogs "will always be the core of what the Taste of Chicago is, and there's nothing wrong with that," said Tim Coonan of Washburn. But for something else, stop by this booth for a different dish every day, including Ravioletto from Café Spiaggia, Ratatouille risotto from Les Nomades and Crab and tomato timbale from The Parrot Cage. (And no, they don't sell parrot. We asked.)

Dessert: And here, we admit our hypocrisy. Because when all is said and done, we still think nothing beats the same-old, fantastic taste of the rainbow cone from Original Rainbow Cone, 9233 S. Western Ave., Chicago. But if you want to flaunt your elitist snobbery by insisting on something different, Mazzone's Italian Ice, in addition to its usual Italian ice, is offering a crepe filled with bananas, whipped cream and chocolate sauce. You might also try the rockin' pistachio gelato over at Canady Le Chocolatier, 824 S. Wabash Ave., Chicago.

28th annual Taste of Chicago

Where: Grant Park, Lake Shore Drive and Monroe Street, Chicago

When: today through July 6; 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. (closes at 9:30 p.m. July 3 and 4, 6 p.m. July 6)

Admission: Free; $8 per strip of 12 food/drink tickets

Contact: (312) 744-3315 or tasteofchicago.us

Avoid budget bite at Taste

It's easy to have fun at the Taste of Chicago. There are more than 200 different food items to sample, beautiful scenery and activities for the whole family.

However, the Taste could take a fairly large bite out of a suburbanite's wallet.

The average parking lot costs at least $15 for two hours, so that's a pretty big chunk right there. Then, it's time to enter the Taste and buy food tickets. A strand of 12 costs $8, and while there is no food item that costs more than 10 tickets, no major food item costs less than six.

With multiple parties, the cost of food could add up to a sum unfitting for a hamburger. Throw in some activities, such as the water slide, and a couple of T-shirts, and the tab at the end of the day could end up upward of $25 per person.

However, there are plenty of cost-efficient ways to enjoy the Taste. Inescapable transportation issues aside, opportunities around the Taste can help people keep those dollar bills right where they belong.

Street performers

At last year's Taste, I was walking toward Buckingham Fountain on a cool July afternoon, enjoying the day. All of a sudden, I spotted a boom box and cardboard mat, on top of which were some of the most talented dancers I have ever seen. This was a group of professional-grade hip-hop dancers who were entertaining people for free. Performers like these hang around almost every corner, waiting for passersby to watch their craft. These fine men and women do usually ask for a tip, but $2 to see great dancing is still a bargain.

Cooking seminars

Every day during the Taste in the Dominick's Cooking Center, there will be cooking demonstrations by professionals ranging from editors of cooking magazines to the chef of the Chicago White Sox. Some of these demonstrations are followed by book signings. A great part about these seminars is the cost, or lack thereof. Yes, all are free of charge.

Portions

The Taste of Chicago really takes its essence from its first word: taste. Your money should be spent on tasting different foods, not gorging on one meal. So, instead of spending 10 tickets on one food item, why not buy portion-size servings (which cost two or three tickets apiece) at multiple booths? Save money, get variety.

Family activities

Got kids? Head to two areas designated for fun, family activities: Family Village and the Fun Time Stage. Every day at the Family Village, everyone from 6 to 60 can enjoy hands-on activities such as face painting, scientific demonstrations and even the decoration of Eli's Cheesecake. Or, for a more relaxed approach, the Fun Time Stage delivers kid-friendly performers such as the Rapping Teacher, as well as dance parties. Admission is free to both pavilions.

Sightseeing

A fantastic part about the Taste is its location: Grant Park between Michigan Avenue and Lake Shore Drive This is the cultural and architectural mecca of our beloved Chi-town, with wonders in every direction. If you head north, the Art Institute and Millenium Park are within reasonable walking distance. To the east, lovers stroll and others walk along the beautiful lakefront. Just southeast of Grant Park is the Field Museum, Shedd Aquarium, and Adler Planetarium. Cold or hot, rain or shine, these locations will still be standing marvelously, and last time I checked, walking around was as free as the wind.

- John Poelking

Polo Cafe's skewered shark Veracruz Marcelle Bright | Staff Photographer
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