BlackFinn a good bet for bar crowd and burger-loving families alike

Posted December 01, 2009 10:00 pm

By Jennifer Olvera Daily Herald Correspondent

BlackFinn American Saloon is already proving a popular place in Naperville. Paul Michna | Staff Photographer

It's a familiar formula: loads of flat-screens (some in private booths), dark wood augmented by beer signs and sporty paraphernalia, specialty burgers, a setting that's both happy hour-appropriate and family-friendly.

In a town like Naperville, it all makes sense.

An all-American tavern at heart, BlackFinn - of which several are scattered throughout the country - has drawn crowds right out of the gate. Since the food is decent (not to mention affordable), we understand why.

The menu kicks off with ubiquitous sliders. We ordered the trio on soft potato rolls: a cheese and onion-topped burger, tender pulled pork with slaw and moist fried chicken crowned with dill pickles. Incidentally, sliders built from fresh-baked cookies make an appearance on the dessert menu as well.

Cheese sticks are another familiar offering, but here they get an update. We dug the gooey, oozy blend of jack, mozzarella and Cheddar encased in a crunchy, fried spring roll wrapper.

Sweet-spicy fried shrimp, spinach-artichoke dip, battered or buffalo-style chicken tenders and Guinness-marinated steak skewers are among the other first-course pleasers. Those who can't decide can get a platter that contains many of the aforementioned snacks, too.

Soup is available daily, along with chili topped with cheese and onions. Of course, there are plenty of salads for people who want to eat "light." Ones to consider are the classic wedge with blue cheese, tomatoes, red onions and bacon; smoked bacon and blue cheese with basil and crisp, fried onions in balsamic vinaigrette; and blackened chicken or prime rib on a bed of baby spinach with mushrooms, hard-boiled egg, cheese and croutons.

As one would expect, burgers and sandwiches are the main thrust of the menu. Going with the flow, we ordered (and can recommend) the signature Angus, a messy affair loaded with cheese, mushrooms, bacon and sweet, caramelized onions. We also tried the straightforward-but-likeable shaved prime rib Balboa sandwich, which is blanketed in mozzarella and served on chewy garlic bread with a side of just-salty-enough jus.

Bar basics like a fried fish with tartar sauce-topped haddock, buffalo chicken and turkey club croissant sandwich round out the kitchen's approachable, recognizable selections. But if you're in the bar/pub area, you can always check out the loosely interpreted specialty "burgers" (they're only offered here). There's a vegetarian made from black beans, plus the tempting Porkopolis with pulled pork, ham, pickles, slaw and applewood bacon. A happy hour flatbread menu is served daily from 4 to 7 p.m. in this part of the restaurant, too.

Even more substantial are the entrees, which range from rock salt-crusted prime rib and broiled rib-eye to fried chicken with garlicky mashed potatoes, sashimi-style ahi and blackened chicken Alfredo. There's filet mignon, too, and it's topped with maitre d'hotel butter and served with rosemary red-skins.

As for kids, they get a menu of their own that's loaded with the likes of PB&J, French bread pizza and grilled cheese.

Before hitting the road, we tried the sinful fudge-soused ice cream pie with Oreo crust and the caramel-laden apple crisp with ice cream, which we gladly dug out from beneath a sweet sugar cookie crust.

The menu, while already reasonably priced, drops during lunch when $5.99 specials are offered until 4 p.m. A full bar fuels the fun, while contributing to the ever-increasing decibels as the evening wanes.

In the end, we found this to be a pleasing watering hole, one where the food - while not groundbreaking - is well-executed. Neighborhood-friendly service only adds to that appeal.

BlackFinn American Saloon's Black Angus burger comes with bacon, cheese, mushrooms and caramelized onions. Paul Michna | Staff Photographer

A trio of sliders makes a fitting starter at BlackFinn American Saloon in Naperville. Paul Michna | Staff Photographer

BlackFinn American Saloon caters to both bargoers and families in Naperville. Paul Michna | Staff Photographer

BlackFinn American Saloon 16 W. Jefferson Ave., Naperville, (630) 717-0400, <a href="http://www.blackfinnchicago.com" target="new">www.blackfinnchicago.com</a> Cuisine: Classic American pub grub Setting: Dark and lively Entrees: $8.99 to $25.99 Hours: 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Friday and Saturday Accepts: Reservations; major credit cards

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