New books fan flames for barbecue enthusiasts

Barbecue enthusiasts get very touchy when people confuse their craft of slowly melting meat to succulence with the act of mere grilling, that is, slapping protein onto well-oiled grates.

But haute grillmeister Adam Perry Lang honors both techniques in "Serious Barbecue," a comprehensive yet approachable new book from Hyperion that promises a full summer of tasty and relaxed outdoor cooking.

The book does little to dispel the idea of outdoor cooking as a man's game, but it does offer excellent tutorials on the basics and offers more than 100 intensely flavorful recipes that can shepherd your grilling skills from novice to expert.

Perry Lang's breezy discussion of tools, grills, cooking with wood and charcoal, and picking the right piece of meat provides useful direction for beginners - and pure porn for the barbecue obsessed. The recipes themselves deliver the promised glories.

From intense, time-consuming affairs like "Get a Book" Whole Beef Brisket to spur of the moment whimsies such as Beer-and-Caraway Braised Bratwurst, Perry Lang aims to build flavor "brick by brick, layer by layer."

That means some recipes within recipes, and steps like meat injection that might intimidate. But his liberal use of seasoning blends, glazes, basting butter and sauces - sometimes all at once - yield deep, complex flavors even in the quick-cooking dishes.

Spice-crusted Thick Rib Pork Chops unfurl smoky, chili-induced heat little by little, and temper it with a touch of honey and lemon. Grilled artichokes bathed in anchovy butter make you suck the tender leaves for just one more hit of umami.

Perry Lang's grilled corn on the cob is an example of what he does best, turning an ordinary midsummer staple into a gourmet endeavor loaded with cilantro and lime. For all of these recipes, the cooking times and techniques are right on the money, letting even beginners deliver charred, yet juicy morsels.

Though he offers a guide to sources, some items like Ancho chili power can be difficult to find, so plan ahead (you may have to order online). The book is also big, hardback and heavy - but maybe that will help it survive alongside your grill. With recipes for Carmel Smoked Bacon, Worcestershire Marinated Rib Eye, Paella and even Pig Trotters, that's exactly where it should be.

Some new grill books also worth considering:

"Cook's Country Best Grilling Recipes," a meticulous, almost scientific approach from the editors at America's Test Kitchen. It offers 100 regional recipes that run from Texas Barbecue to California Tri-tip, from Beer Can Chicken to Hawaii's Huli-Huli bird. A great book for people who have always wondered about the difference between North Carolina and South Carolina barbecue (hint: it involves mustard).

"Dad's Awesome Grilling Book" by Bob Sloan and published by Chronicle Books is a little long on irrelevant stories, but its recipes for fast-on-the-table food like stuffed Dad Burgers and Smoked Shrimp with Jalapeno Mayo give a nice kick to what would otherwise be ordinary fare. With more than 100 recipes grouped into categories like Burgers, Dogs and Brats; Sandwiches; and Side Dishes, the book is extremely user-friendly.