Elegant setting, great service mark David's on Jefferson Hill
Fans of the erstwhile David's Bistro will be happy to know a sequel is at home in the former Masala Yangu space in Naperville. We'll admit it: We were sad to see the tasty African restaurant go. But you can't hold it against David's on Jefferson Hill, which is a different ballgame entirely. And it's nothing to scoff at given David Oland (formerly of Montparnasse) is at the helm.
Gone is its predecessor's earth-toned setting. In place of the terra tones is a cheery yellow coat of paint, which seems all the brighter on warm days when doors are thrown open. On the night we dined, abstract art had just been hung on the once-barren walls. Except for an interesting archway, wood floors and French doors, decorative details are kept to a minimum. The paintings, in other words, are a plus. Black cloths on tables and mission-style dark wood seating give the place an upscale (though none-too-stuffy) air.
Tucked into the back corner of the Jefferson Hill Shops, the restaurant could get overlooked. Don't let that happen: It's a date-perfect destination.
The menu changes, but you'd be wise to start with the lovely duck confit when it's available. The flavorful, tender meat - resting in a pool of deceptively simple, lush sauce - is bolstered by a visually jarring, green crumb topping made from oven-baked bread, parsley and Parmesan. Completely delish.
When it came to the crispy pork belly, on the other hand, only the flavor factor was there. Hopes of crackly skin were dashed when the dish - paired with rich, grainy mustard sauce and fingerling potatoes - didn't deliver as promised. We'll admit some of the fat was meltingly good; the rest was, well, fat.
Sesame-steeped Blue Hill Bay mussels, bacon-wrapped diver scallops with blue cheese and salmon tartare with capers and truffle oil are among the other choices. But our eyes were on the duo of butternut squash and roasted kohlrabi soup.
Salads are limited, as the menu is quite edited, so prepare to choose between baby spinach with warm bacon dressing and organic greens with pickled onions, a goat cheese fritter and mustard vinaigrette if you need a fix.
Given there are seven entrees, selecting a main course isn't daunting. Meat is the main thrust here, and the lean barrel-cut filet - served with classic, creamy (and surely caloric) pomme purée, mushrooms and red wine sauce - is an elegant, satisfying way to go. The nicely seared brick chicken isn't a bad alternative, especially when your mouthful includes some of the accompanying roasted red peppers.
Mustard-crusted pork loin with black olive polenta shows a spark of creativity, while Muscovy duck breast with wild mushroom risotto, Australian lamb with orzo and ratatouille and king salmon with crimini mushrooms and spinach follow a familiar formula.
A few sides - including sauteed spinach and steamed carrots and green beans - can augment meals, though they're pretty unnecessary since dishes come with starch and, often, veggies.
Desserts are homemade. Nothing is too out-there, but there's enough to love. Creme brulee is perfectly executed, as is the luxurious chocolate mousse. Homemade ice cream no doubt is another good bet.
The international wine list, like the menu, doesn't overwhelm with plenty of by-the-glass options and price points that won't break the bank.
Flawless - some would say old school - service completes the experience, though you may chuckle (as I did) when asked, "What can I get for you, lady?"
Do check this place out. It's not going to floor you with an artsy take, but that's not the point. The dishes are fairly straight-and-narrow, but well prepared. In an age when dining out has become a luxury, there's something to be said for playing it safe while keeping it solid.
<p class="factboxheadblack">David's on Jefferson Hill</p> <p class="News">43 E. Jefferson Ave., Naperville, (630) 548-9393</p> <p class="News"><b>Cuisine:</b> New American bistro</p> <p class="News"><b>Setting:</b> Quaint and homey, yet upscale</p> <p class="News"><b>Hours:</b> 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday</p> <p class="News"><b>Price range:</b> Appetizers $8 to $15; salads $8, entrees $25 to $32, desserts about $5 to $7</p> <p class="News"><b>Accepts:</b> Reservations, major credit cards</p>