Look to small regions for great values for the holidays

With all the great values stocking our retail shelves, now is a wonderful time to be a wine lover.

Why now? With half the annual sales occurring between Labor Day and New Year's Eve, retailers are geared up with their best deals of the year -- and there are more deals than ever to be had!

New technology has dramatically raised the quality and appeal of international wines from minor regions once known only to locals. Export capability has increased, with the European Union funding areas such as southern Italy. Finally, international studies promise increasing wine consumption in the U.S., even as home markets in places such as Chile, Argentina and even France dwindle. The wine world is competing for its share of the American palate, and we're the winners.

Let's be clear, to this working woman "value" means: 1) The wine is delicious and well-made. An unappealing wine isn't worth the energy of dusting left-over bottles that no-one wants to drink. 2) The bottle costs under $15. Believe me, any critic recommending a higher-priced "value" isn't paying their own hard-earned money for the labels they tout.

Sure, I'll pay a few dollars more for finesse, but increased price doesn't always equal increased enjoyment. For guidance, rely on your trusted wine merchant -- who you've trained to know your palate, your entertaining style and price comfort -- and turn to the following regions for the most satisfaction and the least investment:

Spain continues to lead the world in well-made, extra-value wine. With the largest area planted to the vine in all of Europe, producers tap into a wide range of growing conditions, offering clean, refreshing sparklers (Cava) from north, powerful fortified wines (Sherry) from the south and chewy, mouth-filling reds in between. Complex Reserva's from the great Rioja region are still well-priced at under $25 (widely-available producers include Marques de Caceres and Martinez Bujanda), but real values hail from newer or lesser-known regions like Castilla y Leon (see "Ross' Choice") and Jumilla.

Tinto, Caracol Serrano (Jumilla) is a rich and chewy red with berry and brown spice aromas and flavors compared to dark cherries, smoky bacon, bittersweet chocolate and licorice. Serve with the richest poultry and red meats (about $7).

Bodegas Borsao (Campo de Borja is a winery that delivers values in many styles including a dry-ish and refreshing rose Rosado (about $7); the light and juicy red Vina Borgia (great for easy-sipping and Sangria, about $7); and the concentrated, vivid red Tres Picos (about $12).

For crowd-pleasing whites, turn to Germany. While the fashion of high alcohol, oak-dominated Chardonnay is waning, low demand for Germany's delicate, pure wine still keeps prices down. Real stunners can be had for under $25 (consistent producers include Schloss Vollrads, Schloss Schonborn, Ernst Loosen) but great values abound. Try Hattenheimer Schutzenhaus Kabinett, Balthasar Ress (Rheinghau), that's round and juicy, like a perfectly ripe nectarine, with classic mineral accents and endless, acidy finish. Serve with spicy cuisine, sweeter seafood and entrees prepared with fruit sauce, such as turkey with cranberries, (about $14).

In Clean Slate Riesling (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) you'll find a light and clean wine with grapefruit-y zip (about $11).

Champagne is the most elegant bubbly, but not everyone enjoys the dynamic acidity and minerality that are this region's hallmarks. To sample sparklers great and small from around the world, join the throng at Champagnefest, 3 to 7 p.m. Dec. 28, at Schaefer's, 9965 Gross Point Road, Skokie. (The $10 entrance fee gets donated to the Skokie Fire Department. 847-677-9463).

While you're there, look for Blanquette de Limoux Brut, Saint-Hilaire (Limoux, France). Billed as "France's original sparkling wine," this eminently enjoyable sparkler was created by Benedictine monks a century before Dom Perignon popped his first cork. Not too dry, not too sweet, it's just right for buffet's, large gatherings and every day celebrations (about $12).

Ross' choice

Alaia

2004

Dehesa de Rubiales

Castilla Y Leon, Spain

• Suggested retail and availability: Under $10 and wine and liquor shops

How much time and attention should be lavished in the making of a $10 bottle? A lot, if you ask producers of this vibrant, supple and beautifully balanced red. First, the three-grape mix is de-stemmed, gently pressed and chilled to extract the purest flavors. During a long, cool fermentation, juice and skins are stirred to elevate aroma and enhance texture. Finally, the wine is aged four months in new, French oak barrels to weave warm toastiness throughout juicy blueberry and cassis-like flavors. It's this type of value that wine geeks love to brown bag and get other geeks to guess the price. You may opt to keep the secret and let friends think you're flush.