Malbec wines enjoy rekindled success
Malbec is the sad-sack-turned-success-story of the wine world.
This hard-working under-achiever once claimed fame by association with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and other grapes permitted by wine laws governing France's Bordeaux region.
Malbec's thick, dark skins added tannin to the blend, but not as refined a tannin as noble Cabernet. Its mouth-filling flavors added a blackberry-like component, though not as succulent Merlot's. It was early-ripening -- good insurance against a crop scorched by autumnal sun -- but susceptible to coulure, causing fruit to fall from the vine prematurely, especially in Bordeaux's damp spring.
So, when a 1956 frost killed 75 percent of Bordeaux's Malbec vines, growers had ample reason to downsize. Roots were dug up -- a vineyard's equivalent of the pink slip.
How and when Malbec crossed the ocean to set down roots in Argentina is another story. Suffice it to say, Malbec joined another blend: this time, an anonymous blend chosen strictly for high volume.
Once the eighth-richest nation in the world, Argentina endured depression, corruption and near-total isolation in the 1900s. In 1990, a blip of stability caused world-wide winegrowers to consider Argentina's worth for fine wine vineyards. The sunny, dry climate ripens healthy grapes every vintage. Water is ample, running off the Andes. Both land and labor were cheap. Led by Argentine Nicolas Catena and Californian Paul Hobbs, Argentina morphed from quantity to quality production in about a decade.
Catena selected Malbec as Argentina's signature grape and symbol of quality, much as Robert Mondavi claimed Cabernet for Napa Valley in the 1960s. Argentina's vineyard conditions corrected Malbec's deficiencies and enhanced its juiciness and structure. Today, Malbec is a sales leader in the U.S., with high-quality wines available in all price categories. Here are some:
Alamos -- Catena's good-value label is plump and velvety, with mocha and spice flavors accenting vibrant red fruit (about $12.) Another good-value is Septima.
Trapiche -- Established in 1883, Trapiche owns more than 2,500 acres in the prime Mendoza region. It was awarded "2007 Top Value Producer" by Wine & Spirits, for wines such as its Oak Cask Malbec (under $10), with plummy-toasty appeal. Single-vineyard bottlings, such as Vina Carlos Gei Berra and Vina Jose Blanco (about $45) honor top-quality growers and win high marks for heady fruit flavors, supple texture and muscular tannin. Another fine, traditional producer is Bodega Norton.
Achaval-Ferrer -- Established in 1998, Achaval-Ferrer typifies Argentina's modern, quality-driven wineries. Vineyards rise into the Andes to nearly 4,000 feet above sea level to catch brilliant sunshine. Vines digging through rock for water inject each grape with tremendous flavor, yielding powerful yet nuanced wines with lush fruit complexed by mineral and floral notes, to drink now or mature up to 10n years. (Various bottlings, up to $120.) Susan Balbo Crios is another top-quality, modern label.
Catena Zapata -- The man who started it all offers a range including the basic Malbec ($20-ish), Catena Alta ($40-ish), and Catena Zapata (over $100), all worth experiencing as definitive of the style.
In 1990, Catena sold 4,000 cases world-wide. Estimates for 2007 tally up to 220,000 cases sold in the U.S. alone. According to the U.S. Commerce Department, Argentine wine imports as a whole have tripled since 2002, with Malbec accounting for nearly half.
But success comes at a price. Increased production means increased expense; Norton reports spending $180,000 more on barrels today than in 2004 and the purchase of a $100,000 generator to stave off power cutoffs. Investment has poured into Argentina, especially after the peso's de-valuation in 2001, but rapid growth often means dilution of quality. Not too long ago, the few wines coming out of Australia were all delicious values. Today, shelves are packed with mediocre Aussie wines, no value at any price.
The bottom line? Buy Malbec now and celebrate it's terrific turn-around in fortune.
It's a story that should happen to any of us.
Ross' choice
Il Prosecco
Mionetto
Veneto, Italy
• Suggested retail and availability: About $9.99 at wine shops
Ease into the New Year with this gentle sparkler. If you're still entertaining, it's a crowd-pleaser, with pear-citrus aromas, not-too-dry-not-too-sweet flavors and soft texture, a great base for sparkling cocktails such as Mimosa or Bellini. Even better, serve yourself a simple unadorned glassful with easy noshes such as omelets, cheese and sliced meats and luxuriate solo in dolce far niente (sweet idleness).