Spanish Cava the perfect light wine for summer

It's hot. You're late. Somebody forgot to pick up the wine for the barbecue, the music fest, the dinner with friends. ... Now what?

Now, if you've cultivated a relationship with a wine merchant, you call him or her, saying, "It's hot. I'm late, yada yada yada." By the time you reach the shop your merchant will have the perfect bottle ready, possibly even chilled.

If you currently don't have a trusted merchant, make a note to find one. Then, head toward the nearest liquor store or grocery where you'll find a range of delicious summer wines, possibly even chilled.

First, consider bubbly. A cold, frothy one is the ultimate warm weather refresher and can turn even the most casual picnic into a special occasion.

For sparkling wine that's easy on the palate and the pocketbook, look for Spanish Cava. With prices starting at less than $10 to just above $20, Cava offers bright, clean flavors, perfect for cocktails and as a backdrop to all lighter fare.

Freixenet (pronounced FRESH-eh-NET) color codes bottles for easy shopping. The black-bottled "Cordon Negro Brut" is light, dry and vivacious with citrusy complexity. The "Carta Nevada Semi-Secco" in a white frosted bottle is delicately sweet to tickle the widest range of palates and to complement spicy dishes, such as barbecue sauces and spicy Thai takeout. (Both about $10.)

Other delicious cava's to look for are Codorniu, Cristalino, Segura Viudas and Marques de Gelida (in a taxi-yellow bottle).

Red wine can be delicious with summer menus, but red lovers may need to alter their selections to complement warm weather and summer fare. When the snow is falling, a red wine packed with alcohol and tannin is perfect for hearty roasts and stews. When the temperature soars, big reds taste hot and scratchy with simpler foods or spicy preparations, akin to wearing a wool overcoat in the sweltering heat.

Instead of powerful styles, such as Grand Cru Bordeaux, Chianti Classico Riserva or any U.S. Cabernet labeled "Reserve", choose lighter versions, such as simple Cabernet Sauvignon, Cru Bourgeois Bordeaux and Chianti Classico or Beaujolais-Villages. (The price tag matters; in general, the higher the price, the more likely the wine has been crafted for long-aging and elegant meals. Lower-priced wine is often suited to immediate gratification.)

Argentina's signature red - Malbec - is quickly making friends with high quality and low prices. For centuries in France's Bordeaux region, Malbec merely filled out a blend featuring Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Within the past two decades (a mere heartbeat on wine's timeline), Malbec has come into its own. Planted in Andes foothills and steep peaks, this wine expresses flavors from easy-drinking to powerfully complex. Delicious and widely distributed Malbecs include Alamos, Catena and Terrazas, less than $10 to more than $20. (See also "Ross' Choice".)

Don't discount rose, the most food-friendly of wine styles. When Americans think pink, they think candy-sweet White Zin, but to the rest of the world, rose is light red, (possibly bone-dry). Enjoy a rich rosado, scented like strawberries with hints of white pepper on the palate, with light meats (prosciutto, pate, a ham sandwich), seafood, salads and rich tapas such as el bocadillo - toasted bread with sardines and olive oil, a traditional dish of rosado's home, Navarra, Spain.

Two widely distributed Navarra rosado's are Julian Chivite's "Gran Fuedo" and Red Guitar, each about $14.

Now matter how thirsty you are or how delicious the wine, remember: alcohol is not a thirst-quenching beverage; it's a dehydrant. The more you drink, the thirstier you get.

To avoid this hangover waiting to happen: 1) Eat before, during and after drinking. 2) Have plenty of nonalcoholic beverages on hand and drink them! 3) Mix juices with wine to create great summertime cocktails like sangria, mimosa or a spritzer.

And toast to summer!

• Advanced sommelier and certified wine educator Mary Ross writes Good Wine twice a month in Food. Write her at food@dailyherald.com.

Ross' choice

Malbec

2005

Juan Benegas

Mendoza, Argentina

• Suggested retail and availability: Distributed by H2Vino, about $15 at wine shops.

I'm delighted at the range of flavors, newly discovered by this palate, in Malbec, the signature grape of Argentina; some are light, some are plush, some have chalky tannin. This wine has a unique meatiness, with chewey tannin balanced by mouthwatering acidity and mouth-filling black fruit flavors. One chef serves it with grilled portobello mushrooms. Home chefs can also pair this with grilled red meats, poultry and veggies.