Baking disasters stem from not knowing how to substitute

One of the more interesting aspects in my life as a pastry chef has been in the role of recipe consultant to friends and readers. Why did my cookies spread to thin? Why did my cake dome? Why did my pie filling deflate?

If you have any baking experience then you know results can vary even with tried and true recipes. Play around with the recipe a little and the results can be disasterous.

More often than not, the disasters stem from misunderstanding how to substitute ingredients. Baking blends cold, unforgiving food science with a baker's artistic touch and ingredients, with their diverse properties, toss a wild card into this process and can trip up even well-intentioned bakers.

Recently, a friend decided to tweak her favorite chocolate chip cookie recipe (I'm sure many of you can relate). She substituted granola for a significant portion of the flour. The ultra soft and sweet cookie dough spread like an oil slick in the oven. Yikes! Not at all what she expected.

On paper, the concept seemed sound: an even exchange of like ingredients. But, was this a bona fide swap? Are there enough similarities between flour as a grain and oaty granola to make it work? I rolled up my sleeves to help her solve this culinary mystery.

A quick look at her granola chocolate chip recipe revealed the first clue: she had reduced the all-purpose by a third. That significant reduction impacted the texture as flour provides the protein strength necessary for a cookie's foundation. That change allowed the butter and sugar to gain control, liquefying the dough and causing it to spread in the oven.

Why didn't the granola hold the dough together? She counted on a portion of the granola making up for the lost flour, but in this recipe the granola behaved as an added ingredient (like the chips), not a vital component of the dough.

Here's a way to understand this important difference. Stir-ins can be readily identified in finished cookie dough and if necessary, removed. Component ingredients, such as flour, butter, sugar and eggs, mix together to create a new substance.

Fixing the spread factor of this cookie meant boosting the flour and slightly reducing the white sugar to make up for the sugar in the granola. For a few substitutions of my own, I exchanged dark brown for light brown sugar and swapped cup of the granola for savory toasted walnuts.

Her version, while it spread, did produce a desirable chewy texture. To preserve this quality I kept the ratio of flour below the amount recommended in the standard chocolate chip cookie recipe and cut one egg.

One last important factor to consider: the choice of granola. Look for a mixture offering loose texture free of large clumps. Customize this cookie to your own taste by selecting a spiced or flavored granola. Get creative and have fun, but remember there are limits. And if you have any questions, just ask.

Creative Granola Nut Cookies

1¾ cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon salt

1 cup unsalted butter, softened

¾ cup dark brown sugar, packed

½ cup sugar

1 large egg

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1¼ cups granola (see note)

1 cup chocolate chips

½ cup toasted walnuts, coarsely chopped

Heat oven to 375 degrees. Lightly grease or line baking sheets with parchment paper.

In medium bowl, whisk flour, baking soda and salt together until combined. Set aside.

In large mixing bowl, beat butter, sugars, egg and vanilla on medium speed until light, about 2 minutes. Add flour and mix on low speed 30 seconds until combined. Scrape bowl well. Stir in granola, chips and nuts until evenly dispersed. Scrape bowl well.

By the spoonful, scoop dough, about 2 inches apart, onto prepared sheets. Bake 11-13 minutes until cookies appear lightly browned and evenly colored.

Cool 10 minutes on pan before transferring to cooling rack. Store tightly covered.

Makes three dozen.

Baker's hint: For a boost of flavor, choose cinnamon granola with a variety of dried fruit.

@Recipe nutrition:Nutritional values per serving: 162 calories, 9g fat (5 g saturated), 2 g protein, 19 g carbohydrates, 1 g fiber, 20 mg cholesterol, 100 mg sodium.