Wine labels allows you to know region's distinct flavors

Only five miles wide and 35-five miles long, Napa, Calif. is home to about 300 wineries, 5,000 vineyard acres and 14 American Viticultural Areas.

The system is America's translation of France's Appellation d'Origine Controlle - a guarantee of name-place origin. Both systems define areas by geography and climate. Both systems regulate label terminology.

The French system, however, governs every step of production from vineyard planting (including approved grape varieties) through packaging (the bottle shape, for instance.) It governs taste, too: If a wine is produced according to regulation but does not taste "typique" (typical of the region), it is rejected. (Mind you, the Appellation d'Origine Controlle doesn't guarantee that the wine is good - only typical.)

Finally, approved wine may label with its AOC; the wine's land becomes its brand.

For consumers, the system is a reliable guide to flavor. Burgundy (wines grown in the Burgundy region, following Burgundy's regulations) will always be cherry-like and silkier than Bordeaux. Within Bordeaux, wines from the Pauillac commune are more forceful than wine from nearby Margaux.

While our Yankee spirit won't tolerate such micromanagement, regions have begun to capitalize on the distinct flavors resulting from their soil and climate. Some notable Napa American Viticultural Areas are:

Los Carneros, swept by cold breezes from the San Pablo Bay, is recognized for crisp chardonnay and fruity pinot noir.

Oak Knoll District is cool, not cold, suited to elegant merlot, cab and chardonnay.

Yountville's moderate climate and sedimentary soils produces supple red with firm but "feminine" tannin.