Diversity abounds in tiny Central Coast
The Central Coast isn't the country's largest American Viticultural Area; that would be the Ohio River Valley encompassing about 16 million acres. It isn't even California's largest; that would be North Coast, about 3 million acres.
But with 1 million acres, the Central Coast provides winegrowers large and small with a wealth of grape varieties, winemaking styles and marketing opportunity.
At 250 miles long and 25 miles wide, the Central Coast stretches from San Francisco to Santa Barbara, overlapping 33 smaller AVAs, some warmer (Contra Costa County), some colder (Monterey), primarily with north-south running valleys, but with a few exceptions (such as the east-west Santa Ynez Valley.)
Only one geographic feature unites the area, but it's a big one: the Pacific coastline. The ocean operates like an uber-air conditioner, its nighttime breeze cooling nearby vineyards after a day in grueling sunshine.
Because wine's governing body - currently the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau - requires that wine labeled with an area contain 85 percent of grapes grown in that area, the Central Coast AVA allows producers to pick and choose from grapes grown throughout vast acreage and still provide consumers with a sense of place on the label.
The bureau doesn't consider wine flavor (as regulators in Europe do) when granting an AVA, but Central Coast winegrowers (and their marketing agents) point to grapes ripening during the day, with acidity developing overnight. In the right hands, the resulting wine will be rich in color and fruit flavor, balanced by a refreshingly tart finish.
More than 600 wineries bottle with the Central Coast AVA. Some, like Au Bon Climat (of chardonnay and Pinot Noir fame) and Fess Parker Winery (check out the meaty "Frontier Red" Syrah-Grenache blend) are located within the AVA. Some, like Calera (see Ross' Choice) follow the age-old practice of sourcing fruit from various vineyards for complexity, consistency and value.
• Advanced Sommelier and Certified Wine Educator Mary Ross writes Good Wine. Contact her at food@dailyherald.com.
<p class="factboxtextbold12col"><b>Ross' choice</b></p> <p class="factboxtextbold12col">Pinot Noir "Central Coast"</p> <p class="factboxtextbold12col">2007</p> <p class="factboxtextbold12col">Calera Wine Co.</p> <p class="factboxtextbold12col">Central Coast, Calif.</p> <p class="factboxtextbold12col">• Suggested price and availability: About $25 at wine shops (distributed by Maverick Wine Co., Bensenville)</p> <p class="factboxtextbold12col">The adjectives pile up in reviews of Calera Pinot Noir: "silky and savory," "complex and solid," "spicy berry with mineral notes" to describe the wine; "visionary" to describe winegrower Josh Jensen, who, in the 1970s, was deemed "delusional" for believing that California could produce great Pinot Noir. This "Central Coast" bottling adds "great value" to the list of descriptors. Grapes were hand-harvested from nine vineyards, with both whole clusters and de-stemmed bunches fermented in native yeast, followed by 11 months maturation in seasoned French oak barrels and unfiltered bottling. After a sip - whether with rich seafood, poultry, veggie dishes, lighter red meats or by itself - you'll find plenty of delicious adjectives of your own.</p>