This $18 crisp white wine from an outstanding producer is a great buy
Oregon pinot noir may be the ideal wine for the cornucopia of the Thanksgiving table. Brooks winery, from the Eola Hills area of the Willamette Valley, is an excellent representative of the state. This week we also have a delightful skin-fermented white wine from Argentina, excellent with boldly flavored foods, and a “baby sancerre” from the Loire Valley in France.
GREAT VALUE
Santa Julia Blanco Natural 2023
Three stars
Mendoza, Argentina, $18
Santa Julia, from the Zuccardi family, is an outstanding producer of high-quality affordable wines from Mendoza. This racy white is made from the torrontés grape, with floral, fruity flavors of peach and apricot similar to dry muscat. Some skin contact during fermentation gives it a crisp, tannic edge without overpowering the fruit. The wine is unfiltered and bottled without added sulfites. (This wine appears online as “La Oveja,” referring to the sheep on the label, though my bottle was called simply Santa Julia.) Certified organic by Letis S.A., Organico Argentina, Fair for Life and Veg Argentina. Alcohol by volume: 13.5 percent. Bottle weight: 450 grams (Light).
GREAT VALUE
Roc de l’Abbaye Sauvignon Blanc 2022
Three and one-half stars
Loire Valley, France, $22
Think of this as a baby sancerre and you’ll realize it’s a bargain. Intense flavors of grapefruit, green apple and pear are seasoned with thyme. A minerally backbone gives this wine structure and energy. Bravo! ABV: 12.5 percent. BW: 585 grams (Average).
Imported by Demeine Estates. Distributed locally by RNDC.
Brooks Pinot Noir 2022
Three and one-half stars
Willamette Valley, Ore., $33
Here’s a splurge-worthy wine for holiday dinners. Brooks has an uplifting story behind it, as well as fantastic wines, primarily pinot noir and riesling. This Willamette Valley blend is savory in flavor, velvety in texture and oh so satisfying on the finish. Pinot noir is versatile with a wide variety of foods and flavors (except spicy heat), so it can dance with a smorgasbord of dishes on your holiday spread. Certified B Corp., 1% for the Planet. ABV: 13.5 percent. BW: 475 grams (Light).
• Prices are approximate. For availability, check Wine.com, Wine-searcher.com and the websites and social media feeds of the wineries, importers, distributors, and your favorite local wine store. You can also ask your local retailer to order wines from the distributors listed. Bottle weight is included, because this is the single most important contributor to wine’s carbon footprint. Have wine questions for Dave McIntyre? Send them to Food@washpost.com.
Legend
One star: Good: The wine delivers what it promises at a fair price. If it says chardonnay, it tastes like chardonnay.
Two stars: Excellent: A wine with character and added interest. May elevate your eyebrows at the first sip.
Three stars: Extraordinary: An exciting wine that stands out from others in its class. Fist-pumping, table-thumping good.
Four stars: Sublime: Otherworldly. May have you thinking, “So this is what they were talking about.”