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Two plumbing problems

Q: We have two plumbing problems, and we’re wondering if they are related. About every three months our main sewer line gets clogged with roots and have to be cleared out by our plumber. The last time we called him, he said that some of the drain tiles are slipping, whatever that means. Besides that, our toilet gurgles every time we flush it or when someone is taking a shower. What the heck is going on, and how can get these things fixed?

A: These problems are separate and unrelated: one involving the main sewer lateral to the street; the other involving ventilation of the toilet and shower drains.

Let's begin with the sewer main. The old line, according to your plumber, consists of clay tiles. These were commonly used 70+ years ago. Clay tile pipes are prone to root penetration because the joints eventually slip apart, and the tiles themselves are easily cracked by root pressure. Unless this line is replaced, root congestion will be an ongoing problem. Until recently, this required total replacement, which involved excavation from the house to the street: costly to say the least. Fortunately, there is a new alternative to replacement. A synthetic liner can usually be inserted within the old line, eliminating further root problems. Hopefully, there is a plumbing in your area who does this kind of work.

The gurgling in your toilet is a separate issue, typically caused by lack of proper ventilation of the waste lines. This condition should be evaluated by a licensed plumber to determine the simplest and least costly means of correction.

Q: How do I know if I should replace 62-year-old heating ducts? One contractor said I’m losing a lot of heat and that new ducts will make my heating bills go down. Another said the problem is the asbestos insulation, which has come loose from the ducts, and which also may be a health hazard. A Realtor friend said I should just have the ducts cleaned. With all these conflicting opinions, I don't know what to do. What is your advice?

A: If the ducts are physically damaged, they may need to be replaced. If they are still intact, they might need to be reinsulated to improve energy efficiency and professionally cleaned to remove dust and improve air quality in your home.

Asbestos duct insulation was commonly used prior to 1973, but this kind of asbestos is not regarded by the EPA as a significant health risk because it is not located inside the ducts and therefore does not come in contact with the circulating air. Additionally, this type of asbestos is not friable, which means it does not crumble with hand pressure and therefore is not prone to releasing asbestos fibers into the air. If the asbestos insulation is loose or torn, it can be repaired with duct tape or be professionally removed. In either event, handling of the material should be done by a licensed asbestos abatement contractor.

Regardless of whether you keep or remove the asbestos insulation, efficiency of the ducts can be increased by wrapping them with fiberglass insulation. This will minimize heat loss and encapsulate any remaining asbestos.

Distributed by Action Coast Publishing. Questions to Barry Stone can be emailed to barry@housedetective.com.

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