A look back at Carmenere's past and a look to its future

"Now" is a provocative marketing term as in "What's the best wine to drink now?" The thing is, with wine, there's a whole lot of "then." And uniquely, with Carmenere, between then and now - nothing.

As a wine, Carmenere (pronounced CAR-men-NAIR) is Chile's signature red, attracting international attention for plush tannin and robust flavors combining ripe, dark fruits and green pepper. Factoring in Chicago-area prices from over $100 to under $15, Carmenere is a wine to enjoy with hearty dishes ranging from fine grilled meats to Hunan beef, carne asado tacos and other meaty takeout favorites.

As a grape, Carmenere is French (pronounced CAR-men-NYAIR), originally part of the famed Bordeaux region's grape blend. Then, in the late 1800s, after the phylloxera blight decimated France's vines, producers replanted vineyards with easy-to-grow grapes, including merlot and cabernet sauvignon, tossing finicky Carmenere onto the garbage heap. But Fortune smiled on the outcast. Before the phylloxera lockdown, Bordeaux vines had been loaded aboard seafaring vessels bound for South America, where Carmenere nestled into Chilean vineyards, to be unceremoniously forgotten.

Fast forward a century. Merlot was the top-selling red wine from sea to shining sea, attracting drinkers as a mellow version of cabernet sauvignon. Chilean merlot was especially popular, coupling plush texture and unique bell pepper accents with the value-pricing we still enjoy from Chile.

Then comes 1996. I remember, like yesterday, the sales meeting I attended as Director of Wine Education for Illinois' top wine and spirits distributor and the announcement made by Chilean winery Vina Carmen: "You know all that merlot that you've been selling? It turns out it's not merlot at all, it's something called Grande Vidure," (later reverted to the French moniker Carmenere). The only sound in that room (and in similar meetings worldwide) was salespeople recalculating their commissions minus the profit-engine merlot. "We should just keep calling it merlot," was a comment I heard more than a few times.

Multitudinous names aren't Carmenere's only complexity. With new planting throughout Chile and new techniques to enhance growing conditions, styles range from easy-drinking wines leading with ripe berry flavors (from producer Rayun, for example) to the sophisticated wines listed below. Along with robust alcohol of 14.5% and up, Carmenere's constant is a more-or-less vegetal quality compared to green bell pepper, green peppercorn and green herbs. How do you tell which style you are buying? As always, my advice is to turn to a trusted retailer or sommelier for guidance or seek out the wines below. (Distributors and retail availability provided to aid the search.)

Casa Silva, 2021: Plump and chewy, with ripe fruit flavors accented by meat and smoke. (Maverick Wine Co., widely available, about $15)

Errazuriz "Max" Reserva, 2020: Although not tasted recently, Errazuriz is one of Chile's finest producers. (Heritage Wine Cellars, in boutique shops, under $20.)

Montes "Wings," 2020: This Carmenere specialist offers several designations. "Purple Angel" is Chile's most acclaimed Carmenere; the 2019 vintage is available locally for about $100. Montes "Alpha" combines "Best Value" with 90 points+ critical reviews and is widely available for about $20. "Wings" was born of spirited debate between founder Aurelio Montes and son, with a dash of Cabernet Franc for a more refreshing, approachable style. Still, the wine has sink-your-teeth-into concentration, abundantly ripe berry fruit and lacing of brown spice from new oak maturation. (Breakthru, just entering the Chicagoland market, about $55.)

More debate ensued during an excellent Wines from Chile-sponsored seminar, as spirited as the question of ketchup on a Chicago hot dog: What is the correct condiment to serve with red meat paired with Carmenere: parsley-based Chimichurri; coriander- and pepper-based Pebre; or tomato-y Chancho en Piedra? (During my wine and food classes at The Chopping Block, we serve Casa Silva with grilled tenderloin and salsa verde.) To decide for yourself, check recipes online and raise a glass to Carmenere's then and now on International Carmenere Day, Nov. 24.

• Mary Ross is an Advanced Sommelier (Court of Master Sommeliers), a Certified Wine Educator (Society of Wine Educators) and recipient of the Wine Spectator's "Grand Award of Excellence." Write to her at food@dailyherald.com.