How to drink wine like a European, or like me

Editor's note: This column was first published on Nov. 21, 2005.

When folks learn how much wine Europeans drink compared to most Americans, they're astounded. (In 2020, Portugal's annual per capita consumption was about 52 liters, about 70 standard bottles; in the U.S., it was 12 liters, about 16 bottles, according to the BK Wine Magazine.) You may be tempted to think, "Are those Europeans plotzed?"

In some cases, yes. More often, Europeans follow healthy wine-drinking habits instilled over centuries. Here are tips I've adopted from European expertise to enjoy wine's healthy, relaxing and delicious effects.

Eat: Europeans always eat when drinking wine. It may be as easy as canned olives or potato chips with a light aperitif. With richer wine, it's a richer dish of dairy, meat or oil.

Eating fat or oil before, during and after drinking protects intestinal walls and slows the absorption of alcohol into the bloodstream. If I've scheduled a pre-breakfast tasting or am uncertain of food service, I swallow several tablespoons of olive oil or butter on my way out the door. Fat is hard on the figure, but it beats sloppy drinking and intestine problems. Besides, have you noticed how many European women have beautiful skin?

Keep drinking: Water, that is. Even though there may be a charge for it, there's always a carafe or bottle of water on a European table. Alcohol is a dehydrator; the more you drink, the thirstier you get. Drink a glass of water before every glass of wine to reduce the urge for a second (and third) round.

Choose low-alcohol wines: 14%-plus alcohol levels are the New World's contribution to wine and a headache looking for a place to happen. I support American industry whenever possible, but when drinking wine, I opt for wines from cool European climates: from Germany & Austria, in the 8% range; 11% in northern Italy; 13% in France.

Never drive while intoxicated: Penalties for DUI are stiff in Europe, including permanent loss of license. Instead, Europeans hire drivers, take public transportation or stroll to fine neighborhood restaurants like those that have blossomed throughout Chicago and its suburbs. (Another solution is fine restaurants with hotels attached.)

Exercise: All this strolling and taking of public transportation doesn't reduce intoxication; it makes it public, which is a deterrent. Exercise does help burn alcohol's calories (about 80 calories per glass of dry wine) and some delicious, protective fat.

Small glasses and "short" pours: In our casual restaurants, wineglasses do double-duty for large frozen cocktails and other bar delights. Bartenders fill 'em up with six to 10 ounces of wine to avoid accusations of skimpy servings. A bistro, cafe or trattoria glass is closer to five ounces; finer restaurants use large globes but pour only four to five ounces, allowing wine room to breathe. Don't supersize alcohol. Use small glasses and four- to five-ounce servings to slow the drinking pace.

Here are some techniques that are strictly my own.

When in doubt, pour it out: I never waste my recommended daily dose of alcohol on substandard wine, which I pour down the drain. I keep a spare on hand, just in case.

Gas it: It's hard to stop enjoying a delicious wine, especially with intoxication whispering, "One more won't hurt." If need be, mark the appropriate level on the bottle, and when it's reached, reach for your wine-saving gas (like Private Preserve, available at most liquor chains, for about $11.95) or replace the cork and stand up in the fridge. Like a good stew, a good wine often tastes better the next day.

Respect those red flags: When I start ballroom dancing with my cat, I know it's time to cork up the bottle. If your red flag flies, stop drinking alcohol - period.

• Mary Ross is an Advanced Sommelier (Court of Master Sommeliers), a Certified Wine Educator (Society of Wine Educators) and recipient of the Wine Spectator's "Grand Award of Excellence." Write to her at food@dailyherald.com.