Use best of the spring tastings as a wine-buying guide

Whenever we finally rotate our closets from cold weather wear to warm, that's when to rotate our wine selections. Shake out your silks, cotton and loosefitting items. Put away the nubby wool sweaters, close-fitted for warmth. Likewise, pack up your high-tannin, high-alcohol wines, such as rich reds above 14% alcohol; they'll taste scratchy and hot when paired with lighter dishes. Likewise, turn to light wine with lower tannin and alcohol, which are easier on the palate and hydration. Light wines also offer chill-ability; chill whites to cold and reds to cool on the palate.

And whereas the secret to Chicago winter survival is "layer up," this can be a time to give complex wines with layers of flavor a rest. How much complexity do you want when you're swinging in a hammock? Here are a few of my favorites to transition your drinking enjoyment from winter to spring or directly to summer.

Soave DOC "Il Selese," i Stefanini (Italy) 2020: Has a light and fresh mouthful of tree and stone fruits, dry, with soft acidity to pair with antipasto and lighter dishes. Soave (soh-AH-vay) was the first Italian white imported to the U.S. post World War II and overplanting made it a victim of its runaway success. However, the Tessari family relies on small-production expertise, with father and son Valentino and Francesco practicing the craft established by ancestor Stefano in the 1800s. In the Chicago trade, this is one of "Beverly's wines," i.e., Beverly Malen, proprietor of Imports, Inc., representing "Wines I'm crazy about and people I want to spend time with." If you go for drinking delicious wine while supporting local and family-owned businesses, this is a win-win-win. (Distributed by Imports, Inc. Available in major chains, $13.99)

Sauvignon Blanc and cabernet sauvignon, Los Vascos (Chile) Available Vintages: For quality coupled with value, visit your grocer's wine department and cast your eyes downward to the low-priced shelves for Los Vascos. The wines have delighted wine geeks and consumers alike since 1988 when the renowned French property Chateau Lafite pioneered Chilean wine growing and applied centuries of expertise in Bordeaux to the Colchagua Valley. It's clean, correct and delicious. (Distributed by Southern/Glazer. Widely available, about $10.)

Cannonau di Sardegna Riserva DOC, Sella & Mosca (Italy) 2019: "Garrigue" is the aroma of wild herbs swept by a sea breeze, often associated with France's Mediterranean coast and its wines. But with pre-glacial ties to the continent, Italy's island of Sardegna, alternatively called Sardinia and her wines have as much in common with Provence as her political homeland. This Cannonau (CANnon-OW), alternatively called Garnacha and Grenache, blooms in the wineglass to evocative garrigue aromas. There's a satisfying tension between ripe fruit and salinity, acid and supple tannins in the mouth, with a delicacy unique from its Spanish and French counterparts. On the island, you might order the wine with oven-roasted lamb, sausage ragu or Porceddu - suckling pig seasoned with saffron and other herbs, roasted over juniper. Pair it with Chicagoland's international assortment of lamb, sausage and pork dishes at home. (Distributed by Southern/Glazer. Available at wine chains, boutiques and specialty grocers, under $20.)

Pinot Noir "728," Fiddlehead Cellars (Sta. Rita Hills, California) 2015: Like surfing on waves of flavor - red and black licorice, deep-deeply ripened berries and brown spices - on first opening, the wine adds dimension and texture over two nights in the fridge. Evanston native and winemaker Kathy Joseph lavishes attention on her fruit, hand-harvesting in the cool, foggy night to protect acidity. She blind tastes various barrels to achieve the complexity of a six-clone blend, maturing in new and used French oak barrels to refine texture. Joseph serves the wine with blackened, thick-cut, bone-in pork loin at home, but this sleek red doesn't require meat. I enjoyed it with bruschetta piled with roasted red onions and garlic and look forward to pairing it with salmon on the grill. (Distributed by Maverick Wines. Ask your merchant or visit the Fiddlehead Cellars STORE online for about $46.)

• Mary Ross is an Advanced Sommelier (Court of Master Sommeliers), a Certified Wine Educator (Society of Wine Educators) and recipient of Wine Spectator's "Grand Award of Excellence." Write to her at food@dailyherald.com.