Fire up your summer with recipes from the season's new grilling cookbooks

GRILLED PORK TENDERLOINS WITH TOMATO AND GREENS RAGU

4 to 6 servings

The sweetness of this quick-simmered sauce pairs beautifully with the salty heartiness of the pork.

You'll need an instant-read thermometer for monitoring the meat. The recipe calls for canned tomatoes but in peak season, we recommend using fresh.

Serve this on a big platter, family-style.

Ingredients

For the pork

1 teaspoon garlic salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon dried parsley (may substitute dried marjoram)

½ teaspoon dried oregano

½ teaspoon granulated garlic (aka garlic powder)

2 whole pork tenderloins (about 1 pound each), trimmed of silverskin and excess fat

Vegetable oil, as needed

Fresh tarragon leaves, for serving (optional)

Flaky sea salt (optional)

For the ragu

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium onion, cut into 1/2-inch dice

2 cloves garlic, minced

¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

5 packed cups fresh greens, such as spinach, escarole or turnip

Two 14.5-ounce cans diced tomatoes, preferably no-salt-added (may substitute 4 to 6 medium-size ripe tomatoes, diced)

For the pork: Stir together the garlic salt, black pepper, dried parsley, dried oregano and garlic powder in a small bowl, then use it to rub all over the tenderloins. Let them sit at room temperature while you preheat the grill.

Prepare the grill for direct and indirect heat. Preheat to high (450 to 500 degrees). Rub the seasoned tenderloins lightly with oil, then place them on direct-heat side of the grill. Close the lid and cook for about 6 minutes per side, trying to turn them only once.

Move them to the indirect-heat side of the grill. At this point, use the thermometer to begin checking their internal temperature, which should register in the 140- to 145-degree range (lightly pink at the center). This round of cooking should take about 8 minutes. Transfer them to a plate; cover loosely with aluminum foil and let them rest for 10 minutes, while you make the ragu.

For the ragu: Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Stir in the onion and cook for 3 to 5 minutes, until softened, then add the garlic and crushed red pepper flakes. Cook for about a minute, then stir in the greens (you may need to do this in two batches); cook for a few minutes until they begin to wilt.

Reduce the heat to medium-low; add the diced tomatoes, stirring to incorporate. Cook for 10 minutes, then taste and add more black pepper, as needed.

While the ragu finishes cooking, cut the tenderloins into 1/4-inch thick slices, arranging them on a platter as you work. Spoon some of the warm ragu over them, sprinkle lightly with fresh tarragon and flaky sea salt, if desired, and pass the remaining ragu at the table.

Nutrition | Per serving (based on 6, using no-salt-added tomatoes): 260 calories, 33 g protein, 10 g carbohydrates, 10 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 75 mg cholesterol, 600 mg sodium, 3 g dietary fiber, 5 g sugar

Adapted from "Southern Smoke: Barbecue Traditions and Treasured Recipes Reimagined for Today," by Matthew Register. Harvard Common Press, 2019.

HOT PULLED OYSTER MUSHROOMS

6 servings

Here, seasoned mushrooms are smoked, tossed in a vinegary hot sauce and then smoked briefly for a second time.

Using two forks is the easiest way to shred/pull the mushrooms. If you don't have a perforated pan, you can make one by poking holes in the bottom of a disposable aluminum roasting pan, or use a wire-mesh basket.

Apple or pecan wood chips are good to use here; soak them for 30 minutes before you use them.

We're showing them on buns with shredded lettuce and pickled onions; use the condiments and toppings you like best.

For the mushrooms

1½ pounds oyster mushrooms

2 tablespoons kosher salt

½ cup packed light brown sugar

2 tablespoons sweet paprika (optional)

2 tablespoons powdered mustard

2 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper

For the sauce

1 cup apple cider vinegar

1 cup water

2 tablespoons light brown sugar

1 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Toasted buns, for serving

Separate the layers of the oyster mushrooms by pulling each one from the main body or stem. Further break down the larger layers by shredding them into strips. Place in a bowl, then add the salt, brown sugar, the paprika, if using, the powdered mustard and black pepper, tossing to coat the mushrooms evenly. Let them sit while you prepare your grill or smoker; the mushrooms will express moisture and get a bit sticky at this point, and that's OK.

Prepare your smoker or grill for indirect heat. Preheat to 225 degrees. (About 10 minutes before you begin to cook on your grill, drain the chips and place them on the coals.)

Place the seasoned mushrooms in your large perforated pan or basket. Cover with aluminum foil and place in the grill or smoker, with a drip pan underneath. Close the lid and smoke for about 1 hour. The mushrooms should be a little softer and starting to break down after 45 minutes.

Meanwhile, combine the vinegar, water, brown sugar, cayenne pepper, salt and black pepper in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring, just until the sugar has dissolved, then turn off the heat.

Add the smoked mushrooms to the pan and toss to coat thoroughly. This will purge them of most of their gritty spice rub. Use a slotted spoon to lift them out, discard that liquid, then return the coated mushrooms to their same steamer pan. Re-cover and smoke for another 15 minutes.

Serve warm, on the toasted buns.

Ingredients are too variable for a meaningful analysis.

Adapted from "Smoked: One Man's Journey to Find Incredible Recipes, Standout Pitmasters and the Stories Behind Them," by Ed Randolph. YC Media, 2019.

GRILLED CHICKEN THIGHS WITH PICKLED WHITE BARBECUE SAUCE

2 servings

One of the best things about this recipe, from the editor of UK BBQ Mag, is that it does not serve a crowd. But it's easily scalable if that's what you need to do. There's no marinating, and the dish comes together fairly quickly.

He prefers using boneless chicken thighs because their skin cooks up crisper, and because they lie flatter and cook more evenly than bone-in.

You'll need a thermometer for monitoring the chicken.

Serve with pickles on the side.

For the chicken

4 boneless, skin-on chicken thighs

Vegetable oil or cooking oil spray

2 teaspoons dry rub seasoning blend for grilled meats or poultry seasoning blend (your choice)

For the sauce

¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons good-quality mayonnaise

2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

3 pickled gherkins, finely chopped, plus 1 tablespoon of their jarred liquid

1 tablespoon yellow mustard

1 teaspoon sugar

1 medium clove garlic, mashed to a paste

1 teaspoon prepared horseradish (white)

2 teaspoons coarsely ground or cracked black pepper

Generous pinch fine sea salt

For the chicken: Prepare the grill for direct heat. Preheat to medium-high (375 degrees).

Lightly coat the chicken thighs with oil, then rub the seasoning blend all over them (meat and skin). Place on the grill, skin sides down; close the lid and cook for about 10 minutes, so the fat renders a bit and the skin becomes crisp. Turn them over; close the lid and cook for an additional 5 minutes, or until their internal temperature registers 165 degrees on an instant-read thermometer.

While the chicken is cooking, make the sauce: Stir together the mayonnaise, vinegar, chopped gherkins and their juice, mustard, sugar, garlic, horseradish, pepper and the pinch of salt in a medium bowl, until well incorporated.

Serve the chicken thighs with a drizzle of the pickled white barbecue sauce, and more for passing at the table.

Nutrition (using half the sauce): Calories: 570; Total Fat: 51 g; Saturated Fat: 11 g; Cholesterol: 145 mg; Sodium: 420 mg; Carbohydrates: 4 g; Sugars: 2 g; Protein: 25 g.

Adapted from "Food and Fire: Create Bold Dishes With 65 Recipes to Cook Outdoors," by Marcus Bawdon. Cico Books, 2019.

POTATO AND PROSCIUTTO PACKETS

4 servings

Here, Yukon Gold potatoes are paired with salty prosciutto and creamy goat cheese in a classic and easy example of foil-packet cooking.

MAKE AHEAD: The packets can be assembled and refrigerated several hours in advance.

Ingredients

2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, cut into ¼-inch rounds

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

4 slices prosciutto (about 2 ounces)

4 ounces plain goat cheese

Prepare a grill for direct heat: Preheat to medium-high (375 degrees). Cut 4 sheets of aluminum foil that are at least 14 inches long.

Meanwhile, toss the potatoes with the oil, rosemary and a few pinches of salt and pepper in a mixing bowl until evenly coated.

Spray the dull side of each sheet of foil with cooking oil spray. Place equal amounts of the seasoned potatoes on each sheet, creating a mound at the center. Lay a slice of prosciutto over each mound. Top each with a few dollops of goat cheese, then seal each packet by bringing together the long sides and folding their edges over together, twice. Fold in each short end, twice, leaving enough room inside for some air to circulate.

Place the packets on the grill grate; close the lid and cook for about 35 minutes, using tongs to rotate them every 10 minutes. Transfer the packets to a rimmed baking sheet; the potatoes are done when you can pierce them easily with a fork.

Nutrition | Per serving: 330 calories, 14 g protein, 41 g carbohydrates, 11 g fat, 5 g saturated fat, 35 mg cholesterol, 420 mg sodium, 3 g dietary fiber, 1 g sugar

Adapted from "The Backyard Fire Cookbook," by Linda Ly. Harvard Common Press, 2019.

SPICY THAI STRIP STEAKS A LA PLANCHA

4 to 6 servings

The flavor of this steak - aka top sirloin, New York strip, Kansas City strip - comes alive with the use of a hot metal griddle, called a plancha. The recipe includes a salad with complementary flavors in its dressing.

We found these not overly spicy, so feel free to ramp up amount of the crushed red pepper flakes.

MAKE AHEAD: The steaks need to marinate for 1 hour at room temperature.

Ingredients

For the steaks and marinade

2 tablespoons low-sodium soy sauce

2 tablespoons Shaoxing wine or mirin

2 tablespoons grapeseed oil (may substitute vegetable oil)

2 cloves garlic, grated

One 1½ peeled fresh ginger root, grated (1 tablespoon)

4 strip steaks (about 10 ounces each and 1 to 1¼ inches thick), fat trimmed to ¼-inch or less

For the dressing

¼ cup fish sauce

2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil

3 tablespoons packed dark brown sugar

3 tablespoons fresh lime juice (from 1 limes)

3 tablespoons thinly sliced shallot

2 tablespoons minced cilantro leaves

2 tablespoons minced mint leaves

1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes, or as needed

For serving

1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil

12 to 15 ounces (6 cups) mesclun/mixed salad greens

1/3 cup thinly sliced English (seedless) cucumber

1/3 cup shredded carrot

1/3 cup fresh bean sprouts

1 lime, cut into wedges

For the steaks and marinade: Whisk together the soy sauce, the Shaoxing wine or mirin, the grapeseed oil, garlic and ginger in a 13-by-9-inch glass or ceramic baking dish until well incorporated. Add the steaks in a single layer, turning to coat them all over. Cover and let sit at room temperature for 1 hour, turning the steaks another time or two.

For the dressing: Combine the fish sauce, the 2 tablespoons of toasted sesame oil, brown sugar, lime juice, shallot, cilantro, mint and crushed red pepper flakes in a liquid measuring cup, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Taste, and add more crushed red pepper flakes, as needed. Let this sit while you grill the meat.

Prepare the grill for direct heat: Preheat to high (450 to 550 degrees). Place your large cast-iron griddle on the grill, close the lid and allow 10 to 15 minutes for the griddle to get very, very hot.

Open the lid and place the steaks on the griddle, spacing them at least an inch apart. Discard the remaining marinade. Close the lid and grill for 5 to 7 minutes (medium-rare; 125 to 130 degrees), turning them halfway through. Transfer the steak to a cutting board to rest for 5 minutes.

When you're ready to serve, thinly slice the meat against (across) the grain, on a slight diagonal. Arrange the slices on a platter. Re-stir the dressing, then spoon all but a tablespoon of it over the meat.

Add the tablespoon of toasted sesame oil to what's left of the dressing, whisking to blend them.

Toss together the salad greens, cucumber slices, carrot and bean sprouts in a serving bowl. Pour the sesame oil-dressing over the top and toss to coat.

Serve the salad alongside the steak, with lime wedges.

Ingredients are too variable for a meaningful analysis.

Adapted from "Weber's Ultimate Grilling: A Step-by-Step Guide to Barbecue Genius," by Jamie Purviance. Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2019.

GRILLED TOFU WITH GINGER-CILANTRO SAUCE

4 servings

Tofu soaks in this bright and zesty sauce, and picks up those impressive grill marks in minutes.

Serve with rice or rice noodles and a salad.

2 packed cups cilantro leaves

¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon vegetable oil

½ jalapeño pepper, seeded and coarsely chopped

One 1-inch piece peeled fresh ginger root, finely grated (1 teaspoon)

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

3 scallions (green parts only), cut into 1-inch pieces

Kosher salt or coarse sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

14 ounces extra-firm tofu, drained, pressed and cut into 12 equal pieces

Steps

Prepare the grill for direct heat: Preheat to medium (325 to 350 degrees).

Meanwhile, combine the cilantro, ¼ cup of the oil, jalapeño, ginger, lime juice and scallion greens in a blender; puree until smooth, stopping to scrape down the sides of blender jar as needed. Taste, and season lightly with salt and pepper, or as needed.

Use the remaining tablespoon of oil to brush the tofu pieces, then season each piece lightly with salt and pepper. Place them on the grill; close the lid and cook for a total of 4 to 6 minutes, using tongs to turn them over halfway through. The tofu should have nice grill marks.

Transfer to a serving plate; brush generously with the ginger-cilantro sauce or spoon half of it on top. Pass the remaining sauce at the table.

NOTE: To press excess moisture from the tofu, wrap the block in paper towel or a clean dish towel. Place a plate on top, then a weight, such as a 28-ounce can of tomatoes. Let it sit for about 1 hour, and up to 4 hours. (This method is not recommended for soft tofu.)

Nutrition | Per serving: 290 calories, 13 g protein, 2 g carbohydrates, 25 g fat, 4 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 60 mg sodium, 2 g dietary fiber, 0 g sugar

Adapted from "Martha Stewart's Grilling: 125+ Recipes for Gatherings Large and Small." Clarkson Potter, 2019.

COCA-COLA SMOKED BEEF TENDERLOIN

6 servings

This is a showstopper, as delicate as it is flavorful. So be careful not to overcook it.

You'll need thermometer for monitoring the meat.

Soak your oak wood chips for 30 minutes before you use them.

MAKE AHEAD: The meat needs to marinate in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours, and up to overnight.

One 2¾- to 3-pound beef tenderloin roast

2 cups beef broth, preferably low-sodium

½ cup distilled white vinegar

1 cup packed dark brown sugar

12 ounces plain Coca-Cola (do not use Diet Coke or Coke Zero)

Use paper towels to pat the meat dry all over. Stir together the broth, vinegar, brown sugar and Coke in an aluminum/smoker-friendly pan that is deep enough for the meat to be submerged (or you can use a gallon-size resealable zip-top bag). Add the tenderloin and turn to coat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, and up to overnight. (If your pan does not allow for total submersion, turn the roast every hour.)

When you are ready to cook, prepare your smoker or grill (for indirect heat). Preheat to 275 degrees. (About 10 minutes before you begin to cook on your grill, drain the chips and place them on the coals.)

Discard the marinade, clean the pan and return the meat to it. Place in your grill or smoker and close the lid. Cook for about 1 1/2 hours, or until the internal temperature of the meat registers 155 degrees (medium-rare) on an instant-read thermometer. Transfer the tenderloin to a cutting board to rest for 10 minutes before cutting into 1/2-inch slices for serving.

Nutrition | Per serving (with low sodium beef broth): 460 calories, 46 g protein, 40 g carbohydrates, 14 g fat, 5 g saturated fat, 125 mg cholesterol, 250 mg sodium, 0 g dietary fiber, 39 g sugar

Adapted from "BBQ&A; With Myron Mixon: Everything You Ever Wanted to Know About Barbecue," with Kelly Alexander. Abrams, 2019.

SQUASH AND RICE PUDDING

8 servings

This savory rendition of a rice pudding was inspired by a recipe from the early 1900s. The combination of summer squash, fresh basil and oregano, sour cream and heavy cream makes it a rich-tasting, worthy and unusual side for grilled meats and vegetables.

We liked it served cold, too.

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 pounds yellow squash, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch slices

5½ cups water, or more as needed

2 teaspoons kosher salt

3 cups white long-grain rice (uncooked)

2 cups regular or low-fat sour cream (do not use nonfat)

2 cups heavy cream

1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil, plus more for optional garnish

1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano, plus more for optional garnish

1 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper, or more as needed

Steps

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Melt the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the squash and cook for 15 minutes, or until tender enough to qualify as slightly mushy. Let it cool in the pan; do not drain off its released liquid/juices.

Meanwhile, bring the water to a boil over high heat. Stir in 1 teaspoon of the salt and the rice. Once the water returns to a boil, reduce the heat to medium-low, cover and cook for about 18 minutes, or until the rice is tender. (If it isn't quite done and pot seems dry, add more water and keep cooking the rice, as needed.)

Transfer the just-cooked rice to a 2-quart casserole dish. Stir in the cooked squash and its juices, then add the sour cream, heavy cream, basil, oregano, the remaining teaspoon of salt and the pepper, folding gently until well incorporated. Cover tightly with aluminum foil; bake (middle rack) for 20 minutes, then uncover and continue to bake for an additional 10 to 15 minutes, or just until some browned spots appear. Serve warm.

Nutrition | Per serving: 590 calories, 9 g protein, 68 g carbohydrates, 31 g fat, 21 g saturated fat, 120 mg cholesterol, 320 mg sodium, 2 g dietary fiber, 7 g sugar

Adapted from "Southern Smoke: Barbecue Traditions and Treasured Recipes Reimagined for Today," by Matthew Register. Harvard Common Press, 2019.