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Put a little more awe in your slaw

All too often, slaw is a sad and soggy afterthought - a mayonnaise-heavy mound of cabbage smothered into submission. What a missed opportunity when you consider the bright, fresh possibilities a good slaw presents.

The accompanying recipe is a case in point. It is a crisp, colorful mélange of shredded vegetables - red cabbage, fennel, carrot and onion - in a tangy-sweet vinaigrette, made with healthful oil, that softens the slaw components slightly and brings them together without overdoing it.

A final toss with toasted sunflower seeds adds a delightfully nutty crunch for a slaw that stands up to make-ahead treatment for a summer gathering, and it stands out as a truly desirable side dish.

• Ellie Krieger is a registered dietitian, nutritionist and author who hosts public television's "Ellie's Real Good Food."

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