Egg foo yong gets a revival

The name sounds slightly inauthentic, and harks back to the days when Americans didn't know from mapo tofu or bao buns. But egg foo yong is a most approachable, Cantonese-style dish with a tradition of its own: an eggy pancake with a kitchen-sink helping of tender and crisp vegetables, pork, shrimp, even water chestnuts and bean sprouts.

Saveur declared its comeback a few years ago, so you can feel good about giving this version a try. It is stripped to basics, and meatless. If the Asian greens called choy sum — a green-stemmed member of the brassicas that I can get behind — are at your disposal, chop them up and saute them with onion before the eggs get poured in. Or use peeled broccoli stems instead. It will taste just as good.