A lasagna recipe that puts asparagus in the spotlight
Here in the 21st century, most produce is available year-round - even if it needs to come to us from afar. But we happen to be in the midst of asparagus season, when the toothsome veggie is at its absolute best: local, fresh and delicious.
Typically, asparagus is cast as a scene-stealing supporting actor. But this lasagna recipe, in which tender spears take the place of beef or pork, places it firmly at center stage (with compatible cheeses and fresh lemon zest in supporting roles). Broiling the asparagus, as we do here, really helps to concentrate the flavor.
The asparagus you choose should be firm and smooth, with tightly bound heads. At the store, you should find them arranged in bunches, standing straight up in a little bit of water. (It keeps them fresh.) At home, you'll want to peel the stalks when they're more than 1/3-inch thick, so they will cook evenly.
As for the pasta, we've kissed off traditional lasagna noodles in favor of won ton wrappers. These fresh Chinese pasta squares can be found in the refrigerated or frozen-food section of most supermarkets these days. Prepared with the same ingredients as fresh Italian pasta, they're a terrific alternative to the traditional ingredient because won ton wrappers don't need to be precooked, and they are thinner than "no-boil" lasagna sheets.
Also, when the squares are stacked between fillings, they form an easily served single portion - eliminating the usual struggle to carve individual portions out of a big pan of lasagna.
• Sara Moulton is the host of "Sara's Weeknight Meals," a public television show now in its sixth season. She writes a weekly column for The Associated Press and is the author of four cookbooks, including, most recently, "Sara Moulton's Home Cooking 101: How to Make Everything Taste Better."